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  • About
  • The Global ETD Search service is a free service for researchers to find electronic theses and dissertations. This service is provided by the Networked Digital Library of Theses and Dissertations.
    Our metadata is collected from universities around the world. If you manage a university/consortium/country archive and want to be added, details can be found on the NDLTD website.
71

Coolhunting: la circolarità della distinzione / Coolhunting: The Circularity of Distinction

PEDRONI, MARCO LUCA 19 February 2009 (has links)
Obiettivo di questa tesi è una lettura del coolhunting, attività professionale ancora relativamente poco diffusa, come luogo emblematico di meccanismi simbolici cruciali per spiegare non solo il sistema della moda ma anche molti degli andamenti della produzione e del consumo di beni materiali ricchi di contenuti immateriali. Non a caso, il debito teorico di questo lavoro non riguarda solo i fashion studies a partire dal classico saggio di Simmel, ma soprattutto un autore come Pierre Bourdieu, che poche pagine ha dedicato alla moda ma ha coniato concetti, come quelli di campo, capitale culturale e simbolico, habitus e distinzione, che sono diventati imprescindibili in ogni studio di tipo culturale. La base empirica della ricerca è costituita da 42 interviste del tipo racconti di vita, che hanno coinvolto una variegata popolazione di coolhunters inseriti in agenzie o nelle imprese della moda, ricercatori e consulenti free-lance, le cui esperienze lavorative sono analiticamente descritte nei capitoli centrali della tesi. La ricostruzione del mondo del coolhunting si avvale anche di una accurata ricerca effettuata su siti web dedicati. Nel capitolo finale la prospettiva teorica e il corpus di informazioni raccolte trovano una sintesi in (a) una definizione articolata ma precisa di cool-hunter; (b) una tipologia idealtipica; (c) nel concetto bourdieusiano di distinzione, che sembra essere la posta in gioco intorno alla quale ruota tutto il mondo del coolhunting. I coolhunters emergono come intermediari culturali riconosciuti per la loro capacità di cogliere gli stili di consumo emergenti e le macrotendenze culturali per offrirli come spunto alla creatività dei produttori di oggetti di moda mainstream. / The aim of this thesis is a reading of coolhunting, an emergent professional activity, as an emblematic place of symbolic mechanisms that are crucial in order to explain not only the fashion system but also many cultural processes of the production and the consumption of material goods rich of immaterial contents. The theoretical debt does not regard only the fashion studies, beginning from the classic work of Simmel, but above all an author like Pierre Bourdieu, that has dedicated few pages to the fashion, but has coined concepts - as those of field, cultural and symbolic capital, habitus, distinction - that are nowadays essential in every cultural study. The empiric base of the research is a set of 42 in-depht interviews that have involved a heterogeneous population of coolhunters working in trend agencies or fashion companies, researchers and free-lance consultants, whose working experiences are analytically described in the central chapters of the thesis. The reconstruction of the world of the coolhunting is carried out also with a search based on dedicated websites. In the final chapter the theoretical perspective and the empirical evidences are summarized in (a) an articulate definition of coolhunter; b) an idealtypical classification of coolhunting workers; (c) in Pierre Bourdiue’s concept of distinction, that seems to be the stake that moves the field of coolhunting. The coolhunters emerge as cultural intermediaries recognized for their ability to identify the emergent styles of consumption and macro-cultural trends in order to offer them as useful ideas to the creativity of the producers of fashionable mainstream objects.
72

A trajetoria do estranho : percepção e compreensão do estranho na teoria social contemporanea

Frey, Luci Ribeiro 25 February 2003 (has links)
Orientador : Josue Pereira da Silva / Dissertação (mestrado) - Universidade Estadual de Campinas, Instituto de Filosofia e Ciencias Humanas / Made available in DSpace on 2018-08-03T01:20:56Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 Frey_LuciRibeiro_M.pdf: 6977637 bytes, checksum: d54cb3e02d1c1fc31f3d575c57081598 (MD5) Previous issue date: 2003 / Resumo: Esta dissertação tem como tema a transformação da percepção do estranho na teoria social contemporânea ao longo do século xx. As abordagens do estranho na atualidade evidenciam que a exclusão social, o preconceito e a intolerância são os problemas mais agudos enfrentados pelos estranhos no mundo contemporâneo. Através de um mapeamento das abordagens de autores como Georg Simmel, Alfred SChütz, Norbert Elias e Zygmunt Bauman este trabalho mostra as variações da percepção do estranho. Nas abordagens do início do século XX, o lugar do estranho poderia ser facilmente distinguido, ao passo que as abordagens no final do século XX atestam uma generalização da condição do estranho no mundo globalizado. Simultaneamente, se constatou que as reivindicações com relação ao lugar do estranho na sociedade se deslocaram cada vez mais da questão da igualdade de direitos, para a questão do reconhecimento e da valorização das diferenças em uma sociedade crescentemente multicultural / Abstract: The subject of this thesis is the transformation of the perception of the stranger in modem social theory during the 20th century. Current approaches about the stranger show that social exclusion, prejudice and intolerance are the main challenges for strangers in our contemporary world. By mapping approaches of authors like Georg Simmel, Alfred Schütz, Norbert Elias e Zygmunt Bauman the differences of the perception of the stranger could be demonstrated, reaching from approaches at the outset of the 20th century, in which the stranger occupied a place clearly separated from society, to approaches at the end of the 20th century, which recognize a certain generalisation of the condition of the stranger in our globalised world. Simultaneously, it could be observed that claims regarding the place of strangers in society have been more and more shifted from the question of equality of rights to the question of recognition and valuation of differences in an increasingly multicultural society / Mestrado / Mestre em Ciências Sociais
73

From Vitrine to Screen: Art and the Architecture of Commodity Display

Werier, Leah January 2021 (has links)
This dissertation is a study of the architecture of commodity capital: the display window. Taking as a starting point the work of Henri Lefebvre and Goerg Simmel, this dissertation understands the shop window to be a mode of display, what I define as “the logic of the vitrine,” that has shaped the way the world appears. Tracing a genealogy from the Parisian Arcades to the twentieth-century department store, this project explores the relationships between gender, sexuality, race, and architecture. Feminist critiques of commodity desire and display illuminate how the shop window is as important to our understandings of capitalism as is the commodity. Through feminist, queer, postcolonial, and anti-racist readings of material and commodity culture, this dissertation considers the shop window to be a site of subject formation. This dissertation also examines how designers, artists, and architects have explored the display of the shop window through a series of case studies, including Marina Abramovic’s Role Exchange, Gene Moore’s “drag” in Bonwit Teller’s shop windows, the making of a black mannequin, and Lynn Hershman Leeson’s site-specific installation 25 Windows. This dissertation concludes with a consideration of the architectural role reversals of the shop window and the gallery; the work of Silvia Kolbowski and Elmgreen and Dragset’s Prada Marfa ground this analysis. Artists have disrupted the display of the shop window, transforming the architecture of commodity capital into a space for resistance and critique.
74

Den personliga korrespondensen : En komparativ analys mellan hur det intima visas i brevromanerna Pamela or Virtue Rewarded och Montecore – en unik tiger

Sollander Jergeby, Ina January 2022 (has links)
No description available.
75

The Secret Writer

Chaffe, Tomas January 2013 (has links)
This essay reflects a particular method and way of working that I employ when undertaking artistic research. My artworks are rooted and develop from the situation I find myself in as an artist, the very context I exhibit the work within. I do this by trying to understand this position, both on the micro and macro scale. As an artist currently studying at—and subsequently exhibiting in relation to— Konstfack, I base my research with the physical manifestation of the school. An imposing building that was part of a huge headquarters and factory site for the telecommunication company, Ericsson, in south Stockholm. The title of my essay is from the translation of a unique German cipher machine, the Geheimschreiber, made known to me through enquiry into this site. Throughout the Second World War the German army used this machine to send highly encrypted military messages across Swedish telephone cables. Following one of the greatest accomplishments in the history of cryptography, a Swedish mathematician broke this German code and subsequently assisted in designing a deciphering machine on behalf of the Swedish Intelligence branch. This device, known as the App, was secretly developed and manufactured by Ericsson, possibly where I now study. In exploring the theme of secrets, this essay originates from an underpinning desire and subject of my work to reveal what is concealed or overlooked. Through researching and writing this essay I attempt to have a better understanding on the notion of secrets, in both the private and public realms. Introducing the artistic process and situation I am working from, I explore the central role that secrets play within society. In order to understand secrecy today I introduce the intertwined and associated contemporary debates of privacy, (both private and public) and transparency through such subjects as Google’s new privacy policy, mobile phone hacking, WikiLeaks and offshore banking.
76

Männlichkeit in der Soziologie

Scholz, Sylka 26 April 2017 (has links) (PDF)
Erst recht spät, durch Impulse der internationalen Forschung in den 1980er Jahren, etablierte sich in den deutschsprachigen Ländern ab den 1990er Jahren eine Männlichkeitsforschung innerhalb der Soziologie. Besonders wirkmächtig wurde dabei Connells Konzept der hegemonialen Männlichkeit. Männlichkeit wird hierbei als plural und variabel theoretisiert und konsequent mit einem Macht- und Herrschaftskonzept verbunden. Die Männlichkeitssoziologie thematisiert unter anderem (Prekarisierung der) Erwerbsarbeit, Sozialisation, Gewalt, Familie und Reproduktion aber auch neuere Felder der Geschlechtersoziologie wie Heteronormativität, Migration oder Körper.
77

公開的秘密—從網路日記看網路上的公開與私密 / Open Secret-The Publicness and the Privateness of the Online Diary

廖思逸 Unknown Date (has links)
在大多數人的日記經驗中,藏匿、上鎖、被偷窺後的憤怒總是如影隨形,因為所有說不出與不能說的秘密,都被寄情於日記之中。然而隨著網路普及,越來越多的基本生活需求可藉由網路滿足後,傳統的紙本日記也開始轉以網路作為記載與儲存的媒介,成了任何人都可公開遊賞的園地。 / 本文基於研究者本身在網路日記社群三年來的親身書寫參與經驗,以「愛情國小」作為主要研究場域,除了以日記作為文本分析的對象外,並深入訪談重度使用者以及退用者,以瞭解使用者如何處理既公開又私密的網路日記書寫。本文自日記在東西方的歷史發展出發,先行定位私密在日記中扮演的角色,再輔以從社會心理學層面對秘密本質的探討,來重新探討公開與私密的問題。最後以Goffman分析日常生活之人際互動的戲劇理論為本,佐以社會學中的陌生人理論,解析人們如何在公開的網路日記裡進行表演,其間的變與不變。 / 顛覆了傳統紙本日記之私密形式的公開網路日記,之所以能為日記書寫者接受或喜愛,無非是它既能滿足日記書寫的基本需求,同時又能在日記書寫之餘創造與他人社交互動的樂趣。雖然紙本日記「自我忠實紀錄」之要素,必須仰賴將他人隔離的秘密形式才得以達成,但日記書寫者仍是企圖向日記中想像的對象揭露公開,解決秘密無處可訴的焦慮。而網路日記不僅隔離了現實生活中的親友熟人,更進一步為日記書寫者帶來了能提供積極聆聽,並能給予回應互動的具體觀眾。這些網路上似近實遠、似遠實近的陌生人,讓網路日記書寫者願意公開與之分享私密自我,並且無須擔憂網路日記紀錄的後台面向會對現實生活之前台演出造成破壞。換言之,網路日記既有公開面對觀眾、在意觀眾反應的前台特性,亦有自現實生活前台角色解放、呈現私密自我的後台性質,實則為一結合了公開與私密、前台與後台之「私密自我的展演」的中間地帶。因此,網路日記書寫者只能透過訊息管道的操弄與分寸拿捏,隨著與不同觀眾間親疏遠近的關係變化,揭露不同層面或程度的私密,且更進一步控制與不同觀眾間的心理距離。 / Diaries, on which personal matters are inscribed, are defined as a literary form that is written for oneself and therefore are kept privately, some even locked up, to avoid prying. However, the privateness, the distinguishing characteristic of diaries, has abated since the prevalent internet has become one of the media of storing content of diaries. The study is to investigate how diary writers coping with the conflict between the privateness and publicness in online diaries. / This study is based on the personal online diary writing experience of the author for three years in "Love School" ( http://love.youthwant.com.tw), the field of this study. The interviews with nine persons, including heavy users and dropouts that had ever been indulgent in Love School, are the main qualitative analysis material with some online diaries for textual analysis. / Beginning from exploring the changes in the nature of diaries both in eastern and western history, the study proceeds with probing to the characteristic of secrecy to comprehend that diaries inherently are both public and private. Moreover, Goffman's theory of human interaction in daily life and Simmel's of strangers offer steppingstones to detail the features—interacting and sharing intimacy with others unknown—of writing diaries on public internet. / Briefly speaking, the prevailing phenomenon of online diaries reveals that making diaries public can satisfy the needs of recording private life and of social contact simultaneously. Despite that traditional diary is kept away from anyone to ensure frankness, all the diary writers indeed still reveal themselves in it to some object(s), real or imaginary. Online diaries not only can exclude, if writers want, people who know them in person, but also bring in the unlimited audience with real feedback. Since the audience is composed of strangers, somehow far enough not to reach online diary writer's everyday life but virtually close to see his/her innermost, the online diary writer doesn't have to be anxious about the destruction of frontstage performances in everyday life, caused by backstage behaviors in diary being revealed. In other words, online diary is a frontstage as well as a backstage, that is, a middle region, where the division of the public and private is blurred. In online diaries, diary writers are able to disclose private selves hidden from frontstage role playing while audience¹s gaze and applause, absent in backstage, is all around. To reconcile the conflict between publicness and privateness, online diary writers master in manipulating information accesses and discretion. Therefore, they can disclose different aspects and degrees of privacy to various audiences according to various relationships, and can be the dominators subsequently to control psychological distances between them.
78

The elusive clean machine : rational order and play in a public railway

Evans, Michaela Skye January 2009 (has links)
[Truncated abstract] Rational order and play are often conceptualised as oppositional forces. In modern urban life especially, rational order is presented as destructive of a playful orientation towards life eschewing mystery through coherence, spontaneity through predictability, and contingency through systematic planning. In turn, the postmodern debate often asserts the reinvigoration of free, playful, and contingent individuals whose collective acts are destructive of the rationality of modern order with the present, in contrast to the past, offering a condition of enduring and unremitting uncertainty. This thesis explores the dynamic relation between rational order and play in urban society through an ethnographic account of a public commuter railway in Perth, Western Australia. Notwithstanding this ethnographic setting, the thesis addresses questions of broader significance through an analysis of the railway as an instance of public space and state techno-bureaucratic order. I investigate the creative process through which the state attempts to standardise the various operational components of the railway as well as the reasons underpinning the state's desire to produce what I term a 'clean machine'. In turn, I investigate how differentially positioned actors live within this carefully crafted machine. I do so by following the stories, experiences, and practices of: government administrators charged with building the railway; the managers who oversee the network's operation; the staff members who operate trains, clean stations, and discipline passengers; and the railway's end-users, including passengers and graffiti artists. ... In examining the two tensions of rational order/play and revelation/ concealment, I attempt to explicate how it is that people experience life as simultaneously coherent and serendipitous. In the thesis, I document the ways in which railway officials, passengers, and graffiti artists express a pervasive ambivalence towards their experience of the railway system. On the one hand, these actors experience the railway as a system of constraint that produces 'robotic' behaviours and automated transactions. On the other, they see the railway as a liberating space that enables autonomous expression and spontaneous interaction. By examining these contending experiences and associated sentiments, I highlight the railway as a stimulating site within which to explore the meaning and significance of urban modernity. Lastly, this thesis contributes to debate on the challenges posed by the character of contemporary social processes to anthropological research methodology. I illustrate the utility of such methods as written and photographic diaries as well as mental-mapping exercises, but primarily advocate the documentary and analytical advantages of participant observation in a mobile field-site. I assert that while participant observation poses a number of personal and professional challenges in this setting, these challenges uncover the stimulating complexity of contemporary urban life. To this end, I contest emergent academic commentary that propounds the destabilisation of anthropological techniques in what is frequently described as an equally destabilised world.
79

Männlichkeit in der Soziologie

Scholz, Sylka 26 April 2017 (has links)
Erst recht spät, durch Impulse der internationalen Forschung in den 1980er Jahren, etablierte sich in den deutschsprachigen Ländern ab den 1990er Jahren eine Männlichkeitsforschung innerhalb der Soziologie. Besonders wirkmächtig wurde dabei Connells Konzept der hegemonialen Männlichkeit. Männlichkeit wird hierbei als plural und variabel theoretisiert und konsequent mit einem Macht- und Herrschaftskonzept verbunden. Die Männlichkeitssoziologie thematisiert unter anderem (Prekarisierung der) Erwerbsarbeit, Sozialisation, Gewalt, Familie und Reproduktion aber auch neuere Felder der Geschlechtersoziologie wie Heteronormativität, Migration oder Körper.
80

Duchové dějiny v kontextu české a evropské historiografie 19. a 20. století / Intellectual History in the Context of Czech and European Historiography in 19th and 20the Century

Čtvrtník, Mikuláš January 2015 (has links)
The main thematic scope and basis of the PhD thesis is the specific movement in the historiography called duchové dějiny (in English partly misleading translation intellectual history) in the form, in which it was developed in German speaking lands as Geistesgeschichte, and in the Czech historiography as duchové dějiny outlined by Zdeněk Kalista. In the PhD thesis duchové dějiny is put into the wide context of the development of historical thinking and methodology in the 19th and 20th century. The PhD thesis treats the subdiscipline of duchové dějiny in many perspectives and at different levels and thematically is not enclosed by the boundaries of the duchové dějiny itself. The duchové dějiny is here in a way an optics through which one line of historiography and historical thinking in the 19th and 20th century is observed, treated and interpreted. The PhD thesis also aims to connect the history and its methodology with the archivistics and archival theory. In this way proposes the thesis certain solutions. Nowadays, duchové dějiny belongs rather to the marginal movements or subdisciplines in the historiography in the Czech and German speaking lands, contrary to intellectual history in Anglophone areas. In spite of this the PhD thesis tried to show, that the duchové dějiny is still alive,...

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