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141	Créer c'est avoir vu le premier. Les Galeries Lafayette et la mode (1893-1969) / To create is to have seen first. Galeries Lafayette and fashion (1893-1969) Brachet Champsaur, Florence 25 June 2018 (has links) Cette thèse étudie la place des Galeries Lafayette dans l’échange marchand entre l’offre et la demande, au cœur du système de la mode. Elle réévalue le rôle de la distribution en général et du grand magasin en particulier comme intermédiaire créateur de valeur dans la relation entre le producteur et le consommateur. Au tournant du XXe siècle, sur le marché de la nouveauté et le segment émergent de la confection, l’enseigne répond aux attentes des consommateurs qui cherchent à se distinguer et se différencier en suivant de près les phénomènes de mode. Alors que les maisons de couture exercent un monopole sur les tendances, et limitent leur diffusion en France à un cercle de clientes privilégiées, les Galeries Lafayette ont fait « entrer la mode dans le grand magasin ». Elles fabriquent et vendent sous leur propre marque des modèles inspirés de ceux des couturiers. Cette appropriation efficace de la création construit la légitimité de l’entreprise en tant qu'intermédiaire ainsi que le pouvoir prescripteur de la marque sur le marché de la mode. Elle fait aussi des Galeries Lafayette un acteur de l’économie de la contrefaçon, au centre des enjeux de l’industrie du vêtement dans l’entre-deux-guerres. La thèse montre cependant qu’il existe plusieurs régimes de management de la création aux Galeries Lafayette. A travers l’analyse des investissements de l’entreprise dans les industries créatives et en particulier les cas des Parfums Chanel, des maisons Madeleine Vionnet et Jean Patou, elle se saisit pour la première fois de la question du financement de la couture et décloisonne l’étude des principaux acteurs du système de la mode. La période couverte, de la fin du XIXe aux années 1960, rend compte des transformations de l’industrie du vêtement, mais aussi de la plasticité de la stratégie et des structures de l’organisation. Après la Seconde Guerre mondiale, l’intégration verticale de la fabrication laisse progressivement la place à de nouvelles modalités de construction de l’offre. Dans un contexte marqué par la modernisation de la filière habillement, la « révolution » du prêt-à-porter, et l’émergence de nouvelles capitales de la mode, la centrale d’achats élargit ses approvisionnements aux marques et à l’international. La mise en place pionnière d’un bureau de style au début des années 1950 est centrale dans cette transformation pour faire le lien entre les créateurs, les industriels et les clients avec lesquelles les Galeries Lafayette sont en contact direct.Une partie des développements est consacrée aux associations professionnelles internationale qui sont le véhicule privilégié des transferts transatlantiques mais aussi de la construction d’un réseau européen favorisant la circulation des idées et des marchandises. Ces échanges montrent que la diffusion des méthodes nouvelles d’organisation, importées et adaptées des États-Unis, ne s’est pas limitée à l’industrie. Les efforts des Galeries Lafayette pour rationaliser l’organisation sont une nouvelle démonstration de la nécessité de réévaluer le rôle de la distribution et des intermédiaires du système de la mode longtemps négligés au profit de la figure du créateur. / This thesis researches the role of Galeries Lafayette at the heart of the French fashion system. It re-evaluates the role of retail and department stores as value-creating intermediaries in the relationship between producer and consumer. Additionally, the research highlights the innovative capacity of a family business and shows that the introduction of new organizational methods in retail trade along the 20th century, imported and adapted from the United States, was as much present as in manufacturing enterprises. In the first part, the thesis looks at the foundation of the company, its competitors and its customers. To differentiate themselves, Galeries Lafayette manufactured and sold models inspired by those of the couturiers under the store private label. At the turn of the twentieth century, while fashion houses claimed a monopoly on trend setting, Galeries Lafayette introduced fashion in department store. This effective appropriation of fashion design built the legitimacy of the company as an intermediary, and posited the prescribing power of the brand in the fashion market. It also made Galeries Lafayette a player in the economy of counterfeiting, a major issue for the apparel industry in the inter-war period. The thesis shows, however, that various management regimes for design exist at Galeries Lafayette. In a second part, we analyze the investments of the company in the creative industries and in particular the cases of Chanel Perfumes as well as Madeleine Vionnet and Jean Patou fashion houses. In doing so, for the first time, the thesis analyzes the financing of fashion houses thus unbundling the study of the main actors in the fashion system. In a third part, the thesis studies competitive and market change from World War II onwards: the modernization of the clothing industry, the ready-to-wear revolution, and the emergence of new capitals of fashion besides Paris. The dismantling of the vertical integration in manufacturing, the opening of central purchasing to new suppliers, the pioneering establishment of in-house fashion forecasting office in the early 1950s induced a new organization and changes in the link between creators, designers, industrialists and customers for Galeries Lafayette. Histoire de la mode Histoire des entreprises France 1890-1970 Commerce Grands magasins Mode Management de la création Intermédiaire Médiation Haute-Couture Couture Prêt-À-Porter Industries creatives Distribution Prescription Architecture Department Store Business History Family Business Fashion Fashion History Couture Ready-To-Wear Creative industries Retail France 1890-1970 Paris Intermediaries Design management Prescription
142	Entwerfen Entwickeln Erleben 2016 - Beiträge zum Industrial Design: Dresden, 31. Juni – 1. Juli 2016 Krzywinski, Jens, Linke, Mario, Wölfel, Christian January 2016 (has links) Die Konferenz »Entwerfen – Entwickeln – Erleben« bietet ein besonderes Podium zum Austausch von Wissenschaft und Praxis entlang des Produktentwicklungsprozess mit einem Schwerpunkt Industrial Design. Der vorliegende Band enthält Beiträge der Sessions zum Industrial Design sowie ausgewählte Posterveröffentlichungen der Konferenz 2016. Darin werden Themen und Ansätze von der Anwenderintegration, neuen Prototypen, Service Design, User Experience und der Gestaltung von Emotion über Design in der Digitalen Revolution und für eine nachhaltige Zukunft, Design in mobilen und für Sicherheitsanwendungen bis hin zu Designmanagement, Feasibilitydesign und Reengineering vorgestellt und diskutiert. Die Technische Universität Dresden und technischesdesign.org ermöglichten in Kooperation mit der Gruppe Virtuelle Produktentwicklung der Wissenschaftlichen Gesellschaft für Produktentwicklung (WiGeP) und dem Rat für Formgebung die fachübergreifende Diskussion des Schwerpunkt-Themas inmitten der interdisziplinären Dresdner Wissenschaftslandschaft. Ein zweiter Band »Entwerfen Entwickeln Erleben 2016« (ISBN 978-3-95908-062-0, herausgegeben von Ralph Stelzer) fasst die Beiträge zur Konstruktionstechnik und zur Virtuellen Produktentwicklung zusammen.:Hybride Prototypen im Design Sebastian Lorenz · Maria Klemm · Jens Krzywinski 11 Anwenderintegration in strategische Designprozesse von Industriegütern Frank Thomas Gärtner 23 Die Relevanz semiotischer Dimensionen als „System der möglichen Fehler“ für die Usability Klaus Schwarzfischer 37 Service Design = Kognitives Design – Über die Gestaltung von Berührungspunkten und Perzeption in analogen und digitalen Benutzungskontexten Oliver Gerstheimer 51 Design und User Experience in der Flugsicherung – Assistenzsystem zur Fernüberwachung im Multi-Airport-Betrieb Rodney Leitner · Astrid Oehme 63 Die Gestaltung in Zeiten der Digitalen Revolution Gerhard Glatzel 79 Designing a Sustainable Future with Mental Models Anke Bernotat · Jürgen Bertling · Christiane English · Judith Schanz 91 Design in globalen Industrien – Ein Blick hinter die Kulissen von Dräger Herbert Glass · Matthias Willner 105 Untersuchung von emotionalen Wirkungsmechanismen im Produktdesign Mareike Roth · Oliver Saiz 115 Strak als Schnittstelle zwischen Design und Konstruktion – Ergebnisse einer Prozessberatung bei Miele Norbert Hentsch · Matthias Knoke 127 Feasibility Design – „Designqualität in Serie bringen“ Knut Lender 139 Experimenteller Ansatz zu Effekten subjektiven Erlebens in VR-basierter Risikobeurteilung Patrick Puschmann · Tina Horlitz · Volker Wittstock · Astrid Schütz 153 Simulation komplexer Arbeitsabläufe im Bereich der digitalen Fabrik Thomas Kronfeld · Guido Brunnett 169 Vom Wert der designerischen Perspektive des Erlebens beim Re-Engineering von Produkten: ein Best-Practice-Project Philip Zerweck 183 Vorgehensweisen zum Einsatz universitärer Produktentwicklung als Innovationstreiber Bernd Neutschel · Martin Wiesner · Michael Schabacker · Sandor Vajna 197 Considering emotional impressions in product design: Taking on the challenges ahead Susan Gretchen Kett · Sandro Wartzack 215 Methode zur Verbesserung der Usability durch gezielte Förderung mentaler Modelle Marcus Jenke · Karoline Binder · Thomas Maier 233 info:eu-repo/classification/ddc/620 ddc:620
143	Abkantmaschine für die Industrie 4.0: Machbarkeitsstudie für die teil- und vollautomatisierte Fertigung von Blechteilen Laabs, Peter 19 March 2015 (has links) Die Konzeption und Durchführung komplexer und auf Innovation ausgerichteter Produktentwicklungsprojekte ist ein fester und wesentlicher Bestandteil des Curriculums im Studiengang M.A. Produktgestaltung an der Fakultät Gestaltung der HTW-Dresden. Praxisnah und in möglichst authentischen Entwicklungsumgebungen wird in Form eines Kooperationsprojekts eine konkrete Aufgabe für ein Unternehmen bearbeitet. Für die Unternehmen sind solche Projekte Teil ihrer mehr oder weniger bereits etablierten kollaborativen Wertschöpfungsnetzwerke. Im gegenteiligen Fall werden solche Modelle von unserer Seite her an die Unternehmen herangetragen und diskutiert. In der Regel entstehen an die Semesterzeiten gebundene und ergebnisoffene Machbarkeitsstudien. Die Studierenden erhalten im Gegenzug die Möglichkeit, ihr theoretisches Wissen ganz eng an der Wirklichkeit zu üben, entsprechende Erfahrungen zu sammeln und sich über solche Projekte für die spätere Berufspraxis zu empfehlen. Die Fakultät Gestaltung hat in diesem Sinne bereits mit einer Vielzahl von Kooperationspartnern zusammengearbeitet und sehr viel positive Erfahrung sammeln können Das Projekt mit dem Arbeitstitel \"Abkantmaschine für die Industrie 4.0\" wurde für die Bystronic AG in Gotha/Thüringen erarbeitet. Die Bystronic AG ist Tochter eines schweizer Unternehmens und stellt Laserstrahlschneid-, Wasserstrahlschneid- und Abkantmaschinen her. / The design and implementation of complex and geared to innovation product development projects is an integral and essential part of the curriculum in the course MA Product design at the Design Faculty of HTW Dresden. Practical and in authentic development environments a specific task is processed for a company in the form of a cooperation project. For companies, such projects are part of their more or less established collaborative value networks. In the opposite case, such models are brought and discussed by our side to companies. Usually caused bound to the semester dates and open-ended feasibility studies. The students receive in return the opportunity to practice their theoretical knowledge very closely to reality, to gain experience and to advise on such projects in their later professional applications and practice. The Faculty of Design has worked in this sense, with a number of partners and gained a lot of positive experience. The project with the working title \"pressbrake for industry 4.0\" has been developed for Bystronic AG in Gotha/Thuringia. The Bystronic AG is a subsidiary of a Swiss company and produces laser cutting and waterjet systems as well as pressbrakes. info:eu-repo/classification/ddc/621.815 ddc:621.815
144	Generative Design for Construction Site Layout Planning Raj Pradip Birewar (10664183) 07 May 2021 (has links) <p>The construction industry contributes significantly to the GDP of the United States, attributing to its growth at an unprecedented rate. Efficient planning on all stages of construction is the only way to combat dynamic obstructions and deliver projects on time. The first element involved in the planning phase deals with the layout of the Construction Site. It significantly regulates the pace at which construction operations function and directly affects the time, cost, and safety linked to the successful delivery of the target project. Hence, it is paramount to ensure that every component of the construction site maneuvers with the utmost productivity. One such equipment that occupies significant attention while carrying out the CSLP process is Tower Crane. Tower crane optimization is pivotal to ensure proper lifting and handling of materials, and warrant conflict-free work zones. This research, therefore, aims to optimize its position by maximizing the lift ability. To achieve the goals, Generative Design- a paradigm that integrates the constructive features of mathematical and visual optimization techniques, is used to develop a relatively comprehensible prototype. The first part of the research, thus, utilized Generative Design on two construction sites- one from the United States and one from India. After implementing the visual programming algorithm, an improvement of 40% was warranted in the lift score. A pool of potential alternatives was explored and supplemented by the trade-off illustrations. The concept of trade-off was substantiated by allowing a framework for prioritization of lift cycles, and facilitating a holistic decision-making process. To evaluate the usability, 12 participants were chosen based on their previous experience with tower crane operations. The participants witnessed a live demonstration of the algorithm, answered a Likert scale questionnaire, and appeared for an open-ended interview to provide feedback about the proposed Generative Design technique. After carrying out narrative analysis for the usability aspect- it has been unanimously observed that the technique has extreme efficiency of usage and can evidently prevent the occurrence of errors. The study concludes by providing recommendations to augment the significance and usability of Generative Design for tower crane position optimization. </p><br> Construction Engineering Building Science and Techniques Design Innovation Digital and Interaction Design Construction Site Layout Planning Generative Design building information modelling (BIM) Tower Crane Optimization Visual Programming Construction Management Dynamo AEC Decision Making
145	The Social Construction of Economic Man: The Genesis, Spread, Impact and Institutionalisation of Economic Ideas Mackinnon, Lauchlan A. K. Unknown Date (has links) The present thesis is concerned with the genesis, diffusion, impact and institutionalisation of economic ideas. Despite Keynes's oft-cited comments to the effect that 'the ideas of economists and political philosophers, both when they are right and when they are wrong, are more powerful than is commonly understood'(Keynes 1936: 383), and the highly visible impact of economic ideas (for example Keynesian economics, Monetarism, or economic ideas regarding deregulation and antitrust issues) on the economic system, economists have done little to systematically explore the spread and impact of economic ideas. In fact, with only a few notable exceptions, the majority of scholarly work concerning the spread and impact of economic ideas has been developed outside of the economics literature, for example in the political institutionalist literature in the social sciences. The present thesis addresses the current lack of attention to the spread and impact of economic ideas by economists by drawing on the political institutionalist, sociological, and psychology of creativity literatures to develop a framework in which the genesis, spread, impact and institutionalisation of economic ideas may be understood. To articulate the dissemination and impact of economic ideas within economics, I consider as a case study the evolution of economists' conception of the economic agent - "homo oeconomicus." I argue that the intellectual milieu or paradigm of economics is 'socially constructed' in a specific sense, namely: (i) economic ideas are created or modified by particular individuals; (ii) economic ideas are disseminated (iii) certain economic ideas are accepted by economists and (iv) economic ideas become institutionalised into the paradigm or milieu of economics. Economic ideas are, of course, disseminated not only within economics to fellow economists, but are also disseminated externally to economic policy makers and business leaders who can - and often do - take economic ideas into account when formulating policy and building economic institutions. Important economic institutions are thereby socially constructed, in the general sense proposed by Berger and Luckmann (1966). But how exactly do economic ideas enter into this process of social construction of economic institutions? Drawing from and building on structure/agency theory (e.g. Berger and Luckmann 1966; Bourdieu 1977; Bhaskar 1979/1998, 1989; Bourdieu 1990; Lawson 1997, 2003) in the wider social sciences, I provide a framework for understanding how economic ideas enter into the process of social construction of economic institutions. Finally, I take up a methodological question: if economic ideas are disseminated, and if economic ideas have a real and constitutive impact on the economic system being modelled, does 'economic science' then accurately and objectively model an independently existing economic reality, unchanged by economic theory, or does economic theory have an interdependent and 'reflexive' relationship with economic reality, as economic reality co-exists with, is shaped by, and also shapes economic theory? I argue the latter, and consider the implications for evaluating in what sense economic science is, in fact, a science in the classical sense. The thesis makes original contributions to understanding the genesis of economic ideas in the psychological creative work processes of economists; understanding the ontological location of economic ideas in the economic system; articulating the social construction of economic ideas; and highlighting the importance of the spread of economic ideas to economic practice and economic methodology. 410401 Design Theory 349901 Political Economy 370000 Studies in Human Society 340302 History of Economic Thought 349900 Other Economics 410402 Design Innovation 360201 Public Policy 360000 Policy and Political Science 380100 Psychology 360100 Political Science 360200 Policy and Administration 370101 Social Theory 370102 Social Policy and Planning 340100 Economic Theory genesis spread diffusion impact institutionalisation economic ideas idea ideation psychology of creativity Wallas Wertheimer stage model productive thinking creative creativity process economic economics sociology social methodology methodological self-altering self-fulfilling self-denying prophecy belief reflexive reflexivity institution institutionalise institutionalised social construction Berger Luckmann Bhaskar critical realism Lawson Bordieu habitus field spread impact ideation ideational structure social structure action creativity creative economists sociology philosophy of science homo economicus homo oeconomicus economic man economic agent rational economic man man lucas critique Goodhart's law Keynes Marx Mill Hayek Hicks Samuelson Walras Jevons Arrow Debreu Samuelson Merton sociology of economics sociology of scientific knowledge SSK Holton prediction control reflexive prediction reflexivity Whitley Mackie canonization Henshel Grunberg Modigliani Morgenstern Lucas Muth Simon Blyth Hall Sikkink Hira Hood institutionalize institutionalized socialise socialisation internalise internalisation internalization socialization behaviour behavior Thomas theorem expectations stage model productive thinking evolution

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