[pt] A dissertação A moda de Zuzu Angel e o campo do design tem como objetivo a análise de exemplos de modelos criados pela designer de moda Zuzu Angel, confrontando-os com narrativas oriundas de diversas fontes de informação (entrevistas, material biográfico, publicações da imprensa e documentos como fotos, cartas, press releases e convites) situando, assim a sua contribuição para a moda brasileira. Por vários motivos, como a sua trágica morte, ao longo do tempo, estabeleceu-se um consenso em torno de uma narrativa mítica sobre Zuzu Angel que modelou sua imagem como símbolo da mulher corajosa, inovadora e avançada para sua época. Essa narrativa fala também de sua obra, portanto a leitura do objeto fica embaçada não só pela forma como ela modela a imagem de Zuzu Angel, mas também pelos significados que atribui à sua produção. Neste trabalho, os modelos selecionados são analisados principalmente a partir da perspectiva simbólica e para isso é apresentado um levantamento do contexto sócio-cultural, assim como uma reflexão sobre sua biografia. Este procedimento torna compreensível o desenvolvimento de sua trajetória profissional e demonstra que foi preciso a combinação de uma série de fatores tais como a formação familiar e aspectos existenciais e motivacionais para que ela se tornasse um paradigma do campo do design e da moda brasileira. / [en] The dissertation Zuzu Angel s fashion and the field of design intends to analyze the examples of models created by the fashion designer Zuzu Angel, juxtaposing them with narratives of different sources of information (interviews, biographic material, press publications and documents such as photographs, letters, press releases and invitations) in order to contextually place her contribution to Brazilian fashion. For many reasons, such as her tragic death, a consensus has been established over the years around the mythical narrative about Zuzu Angel which has shaped her image as a symbol of the courageous, innovative and avant-garde woman of her time. This narrative also provides information about her work although the interpretation of the object is not clear, not only in the way in which it shapes her image, but also by the meanings it attributes to her work. In this dissertation, the models selected are analyzed mainly from a symbolic perspective and for that reason a survey of the socialcultural context is presented along with a reflection on her biography. This procedure explains the development of her professional trajectory and shows that a combination of many factors such as family background, existential and motivating aspects were necessary to turn Zuzu Angel into a paradigm on the field of design and Brazilian fashion.

Au sein du débat contemporain sur les théories de la justice, les philosophes se posent de plus en plus la question de la particularisation des principes du juste dans des terrains autrement plus complexes que ceux qu’envisage John Rawls, où « toutes choses sont égales par ailleurs ». A cet égard, un nouveau domaine d’application encore peu exploré se présente dans le cadre des transitions démocratiques : quelle forme de justice doit être mise en œuvre dans ces situations extrêmes, pour répondre à des conflits identitaires ou « ethniques » semblables à ces « guerres des dieux » que le libéralisme était précisément né pour combattre ? Cette « justice transitionnelle », ainsi déjà nommée dans les cercles d’experts, comprend des dimensions à la fois rétributive, reconstructive et économique, et tend à s’apparenter à une théorie générale du juste. Ce travail entend questionner ce point de vue afin de déterminer dans quelle mesure le « cas extrême » des sociétés « post-conflit » peut constituer un « test » empirique pour certaines de nos intuitions bien fondées concernant la justice politique en général. Une tension structurelle semble en effet exister entre la « fin » de la justice transitionnelle et les moyens qu’elle emploie. Car la notion même de transition suppose une certaine téléologie : les sociétés transitent toujours « vers » quelque chose, et cet horizon politique, dans le monde de l’après-Guerre Froide où la justice transitionnelle est née, se voit toujours rapporté à une forme de démocratie libérale. Pourtant, au niveau de ses moyens, la justice transitionnelle contredit souvent cet objectif, en ayant recours à des outils et à des concepts qui remettent en question certains fondements bien pensés du libéralisme : moralisation du droit, défense des libertés positives, holisme social, sentimentalisation de la sphère publique, visée thérapeutique ou encore conception « épaisse » et substantielle de la réconciliation, semblent tous faire pencher la justice transitionnelle davantage vers une forme de perfectionnisme politique et moral que vers un libéralisme entièrement procédural et neutre. Il s’agira donc ici de comprendre dans quelle mesure ce « détour » par les situations de l’après-violence, à travers une démarche fortement applicative puisqu’elle nous confrontera à la réalité de six terrains différents (Ex-Yougoslavie, Ouganda, Rwanda, Allemagne de l’Est, Afrique du Sud, Timor Oriental), nous invite à reformuler et à infléchir certaines de nos intuitions relatives à la justice politique libérale. La notion de « capabilités », entendue comme moyen d’autonomiser les victimes de la violence, nous permettra notamment de penser les modalités de la réintroduction d’une certaine finalité éthique que le libéralisme politique traditionnel avait évacuée. Confrontée en effet à des traumatismes et à des pathologies sociales de l’ampleur de celles que nous rencontrerons, il semble en effet que l’organisation politique et sociale ait besoin d’une conception un peu plus « épaisse », plus substantielle, de ce qui constitue la morale et l’humanité de l’homme – conception que le libéralisme strictement procédural de Rawls ne semble pas pouvoir nous fournir. / Within the contemporary debate on theories of justice, philosophers are increasingly debating the possibilities of applying these principles of justice to different situations from those envisioned by John Rawls, where “all other things are equal”. A new, unexplored, field of application is therefore emerging in the form of democratic transitions: what kind of justice should be applied in extreme situations to address “war of the gods” type of identity or "ethnic" conflicts, which were precisely those that liberalism was born to overcome? This “transitional justice”, as experts have already called it, includes retributive, restorative and economic aspects, and is often construed as forming a new general theory of justice. In this paper we would like to challenge this point of view and determine to what extent the “extreme case” of post-conflict societies forms a sort of empirical test for our intuitions with regard to political justice in general. Indeed, there appears to be a structural contradiction between the ends of transitional justice and the means used to achieve it. The very notion of transition implies a kind of teleology: we always transit “towards” something, and in the post-Cold War era in which transitional justice was born, the political horizon was always some form of liberal democracy. However, the means used by transitional justice often contradict this objective, with the use of tools and concepts that counter some of the fundamental principles of political liberalism. For instance, we might name the confusion between law and morality, the defense of positive freedom, a form of social holism, a “sentimentalization” of the public sphere, a therapeutic interpretation of rights, or a “thick”, substantial, conception of reconciliation - all of which seem to lead transitional justice more towards some form of political and moral perfectionism rather than to an entirely neutral and procedural form of liberalism. In this thesis therefore, we will attempt to understand to what extent the application of transitional justice to post-conflict societies (using a quasi-experimental methodology that will entail six different case studies: ex-Yugoslavia, Uganda, Rwanda, East Germany, South Africa and Timor Leste), could lead us to redefine and modify some of our strongest intuitions dealing with liberal political justice. The notion of capability, understood as a means of empowering victims of violence, will lead us to consider ways of reintroducing a certain ethical purpose to those “ends”, which political liberalism, in its traditional form, has abandoned. Faced with extreme forms of trauma and social pathologies, it seems that political and social organization needs a “thicker”, more substantial, conception of morality and of what constitutes mankind's humanity – one that Rawls’ strictly procedural liberalism cannot provide.

Cette thèse cherche à comprendre et à analyser les fondements historiques, sociaux, culturels et genrés d’une méconnaissance et d’une sous-valorisation actuelles des costumiers et des costumières, en accordant un primat à leur parole propre. Traitant des origines théoriques de l’art costumier à partir de l’apparition de l’appellation professionnelle consacrée, la première partie retrace le parcours et les luttes multiples de Pierre-Nicolas Sarrazin, en cherchant à identifier les motifs de l’échec de la valorisation professionnelle entreprise par ce dernier au XVIIIe siècle. La deuxième partie présente, à partir de l’analyse d’un recueil d’entretiens de costumiers d’aujourd’hui, les notions de métiers de service et de rapport de commande, de genre et de « souci de l’autre » comme étant les caractéristiques de cette activité professionnelle, et autant de leviers potentiels d’oppression. Enfin, la troisième partie étudie la carrière de Dominique Fabrègue – spécialiste de la coupe en un morceau – en tant que « fabrique » d’une œuvre dont la portée est esthétique et critique, de manière à défendre l’idée que l’art costumier constitue un art à part entière, qui pour être second dans l’élaboration d’un spectacle, n’est pas pour autant secondaire. / This work aims at analyzing the historical, social, cultural and gender factors responsible for the current undermining of the costume designers and makers profession. The first part consists in a historical research onthe theoretical origins of the Art of Costume starting with the appearance of the professional vocable - Costumier - invented by Pierre-Nicolas Sarrazin, as well as a study of the means this latter used to promote his field of work during the 18th century and how he came to fail. The second part is an interview-collection (2013 to 2016) - based reflection on the order nature of the work, the gender characterization of the workers and « care » as a creative motivation. It demonstrates how these specifics are potential ways to oppress the costume designers and makers and to deny them the appreciation and salary they deserve. The third part is an a esthetic critique of Costume Designer Dominique Fabrègue’s career, and the « Cut in one piece » Artwork she specialized in. This section argues that the discipline of designing costumes is an Art in full, and as it may come second in the process of putting on a play, is not for all that secondary and shouldn’t be considered assuch.

Cette thèse a pour thème la reconnaissance sociale de la différence au Brésil concernant la population noire. La problématisation de cette question est faite à partir de l’analyse des politiques publiques de régularisation foncière des territoires marrons et de la patrimonialisation de biens culturels relatifs à ce segment social, avec l’intention de comprendre la manière dont on fait la reconaissance de la différence noire à l’intérieur de ces processus sociaux ainsi que de réfléchir à la participation des anthropologues dans ces situations. De cette façon, nous cherchons à explorer les nuances de ce phénomène, les impacts qu’il produit sur les groupes qui sont ses objets et les réactions qu’il provoque dans la sphère publique. L’univers de recherche de ce travail est composé par les processus de reconnaissance territoriale de la communauté rémanente de marrons Famille Silva, à Porto Alegre, et de reconaissance culturelle du Cerro de Porongos, à Pinheiro Machado, deux villes de l’état du Rio Grande do Sul. L’analyse comparative de ces processus nous mène à croire que la culture est toujours le lieu par excellence réservé au thème de la population noire dans notre pays ; ceci est l’espace de la différence. / Esta tese tem como tema o reconhecimento social da diferença no Brasil no que concerne à população negra. A problematização desta questão se dá a partir da análise de políticas públicas de regularização fundiária de territórios quilombolas e de patrimonialização de bens culturais relacionados a este segmento social, com o intuito de compreender como se dá o reconhecimento da diferença negra nesses processos sociais e refletir sobre a participação dos antropólogos nessas situações. Deste modo, procuramos explorar as nuances desse fenômeno, os impactos que ele produz sobre os grupos que são objetos dele e as reações que ele provoca na esfera pública. O universo de pesquisa deste trabalho é composto pelos processos de reconhecimento territorial da comunidade remanescente de quilombo Família Silva, em Porto Alegre, e de reconhecimento cultural do Cerro de Porongos, em Pinheiro Machado, ambos municípios do estado do Rio Grande do Sul. A análise comparativa desses processos nos leva a acreditar que a cultura continua sendo o lugar por excelência reservado ao tema da população negra em nosso país; isto é o espaço da diferença. / This work has as its subject the social acknowledgment of the difference in Brazil related to afro-descendent population. The problematization of such question is made from the analysis of the public policies of land regularization of quilombolas territories and the patrimonialization of cultural goods related to this social segment, aiming to understand how works the acknowledgment of afro-descendents difference in these social processes and to think about the participation of anthropologists in these situations. This way, we aim to explore the subtleties of this phenomenon, its impacts over the groups that are its objects and the reactions it causes on the public realm. The research universe in this work is composed by the territorial acknowledgment processes in the lasting community at quilombo Família Silva, in Porto Alegre, and the cultural acknowledgment of Cerro dos Porongos, in Pinheiro Machado, both counties at Rio Grande do Sul State. The comparative analysis of the processes leads us to believe that the culture is still the place par excellence reserved to the subject of afro-descendent population in our country, what means to say, the espace of difference.

Cette thèse a pour thème la reconnaissance sociale de la différence au Brésil concernant la population noire. La problématisation de cette question est faite à partir de l’analyse des politiques publiques de régularisation foncière des territoires marrons et de la patrimonialisation de biens culturels relatifs à ce segment social, avec l’intention de comprendre la manière dont on fait la reconaissance de la différence noire à l’intérieur de ces processus sociaux ainsi que de réfléchir à la participation des anthropologues dans ces situations. De cette façon, nous cherchons à explorer les nuances de ce phénomène, les impacts qu’il produit sur les groupes qui sont ses objets et les réactions qu’il provoque dans la sphère publique. L’univers de recherche de ce travail est composé par les processus de reconnaissance territoriale de la communauté rémanente de marrons Famille Silva, à Porto Alegre, et de reconaissance culturelle du Cerro de Porongos, à Pinheiro Machado, deux villes de l’état du Rio Grande do Sul. L’analyse comparative de ces processus nous mène à croire que la culture est toujours le lieu par excellence réservé au thème de la population noire dans notre pays ; ceci est l’espace de la différence. / Esta tese tem como tema o reconhecimento social da diferença no Brasil no que concerne à população negra. A problematização desta questão se dá a partir da análise de políticas públicas de regularização fundiária de territórios quilombolas e de patrimonialização de bens culturais relacionados a este segmento social, com o intuito de compreender como se dá o reconhecimento da diferença negra nesses processos sociais e refletir sobre a participação dos antropólogos nessas situações. Deste modo, procuramos explorar as nuances desse fenômeno, os impactos que ele produz sobre os grupos que são objetos dele e as reações que ele provoca na esfera pública. O universo de pesquisa deste trabalho é composto pelos processos de reconhecimento territorial da comunidade remanescente de quilombo Família Silva, em Porto Alegre, e de reconhecimento cultural do Cerro de Porongos, em Pinheiro Machado, ambos municípios do estado do Rio Grande do Sul. A análise comparativa desses processos nos leva a acreditar que a cultura continua sendo o lugar por excelência reservado ao tema da população negra em nosso país; isto é o espaço da diferença. / This work has as its subject the social acknowledgment of the difference in Brazil related to afro-descendent population. The problematization of such question is made from the analysis of the public policies of land regularization of quilombolas territories and the patrimonialization of cultural goods related to this social segment, aiming to understand how works the acknowledgment of afro-descendents difference in these social processes and to think about the participation of anthropologists in these situations. This way, we aim to explore the subtleties of this phenomenon, its impacts over the groups that are its objects and the reactions it causes on the public realm. The research universe in this work is composed by the territorial acknowledgment processes in the lasting community at quilombo Família Silva, in Porto Alegre, and the cultural acknowledgment of Cerro dos Porongos, in Pinheiro Machado, both counties at Rio Grande do Sul State. The comparative analysis of the processes leads us to believe that the culture is still the place par excellence reserved to the subject of afro-descendent population in our country, what means to say, the espace of difference.

Cette thèse a pour thème la reconnaissance sociale de la différence au Brésil concernant la population noire. La problématisation de cette question est faite à partir de l’analyse des politiques publiques de régularisation foncière des territoires marrons et de la patrimonialisation de biens culturels relatifs à ce segment social, avec l’intention de comprendre la manière dont on fait la reconaissance de la différence noire à l’intérieur de ces processus sociaux ainsi que de réfléchir à la participation des anthropologues dans ces situations. De cette façon, nous cherchons à explorer les nuances de ce phénomène, les impacts qu’il produit sur les groupes qui sont ses objets et les réactions qu’il provoque dans la sphère publique. L’univers de recherche de ce travail est composé par les processus de reconnaissance territoriale de la communauté rémanente de marrons Famille Silva, à Porto Alegre, et de reconaissance culturelle du Cerro de Porongos, à Pinheiro Machado, deux villes de l’état du Rio Grande do Sul. L’analyse comparative de ces processus nous mène à croire que la culture est toujours le lieu par excellence réservé au thème de la population noire dans notre pays ; ceci est l’espace de la différence. / Esta tese tem como tema o reconhecimento social da diferença no Brasil no que concerne à população negra. A problematização desta questão se dá a partir da análise de políticas públicas de regularização fundiária de territórios quilombolas e de patrimonialização de bens culturais relacionados a este segmento social, com o intuito de compreender como se dá o reconhecimento da diferença negra nesses processos sociais e refletir sobre a participação dos antropólogos nessas situações. Deste modo, procuramos explorar as nuances desse fenômeno, os impactos que ele produz sobre os grupos que são objetos dele e as reações que ele provoca na esfera pública. O universo de pesquisa deste trabalho é composto pelos processos de reconhecimento territorial da comunidade remanescente de quilombo Família Silva, em Porto Alegre, e de reconhecimento cultural do Cerro de Porongos, em Pinheiro Machado, ambos municípios do estado do Rio Grande do Sul. A análise comparativa desses processos nos leva a acreditar que a cultura continua sendo o lugar por excelência reservado ao tema da população negra em nosso país; isto é o espaço da diferença. / This work has as its subject the social acknowledgment of the difference in Brazil related to afro-descendent population. The problematization of such question is made from the analysis of the public policies of land regularization of quilombolas territories and the patrimonialization of cultural goods related to this social segment, aiming to understand how works the acknowledgment of afro-descendents difference in these social processes and to think about the participation of anthropologists in these situations. This way, we aim to explore the subtleties of this phenomenon, its impacts over the groups that are its objects and the reactions it causes on the public realm. The research universe in this work is composed by the territorial acknowledgment processes in the lasting community at quilombo Família Silva, in Porto Alegre, and the cultural acknowledgment of Cerro dos Porongos, in Pinheiro Machado, both counties at Rio Grande do Sul State. The comparative analysis of the processes leads us to believe that the culture is still the place par excellence reserved to the subject of afro-descendent population in our country, what means to say, the espace of difference.

Made available in DSpace on 2016-04-26T20:24:19Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 Thomas Law.pdf: 1275572 bytes, checksum: 98183030b6c760470e7582142b05e99a (MD5) Previous issue date: 2016-03-09 / This Master s Thesis focuses on the acknowledgement and enforcement of foreign arbitral awards in Brazil, based on the theoretical and practical research in the fields of civil procedural law and international law, considering it includes a study on the different international laws, conventions and treaties on international commercial arbitration, as well as on the acknowledgement and enforcement of arbitral awards. The first part of the study refers to the events of direct enforcement and nationalization of foreign arbitral awards, according to the new legal provisions of the New Brazilian Code of Civil Procedure. The second part of the study covers the assessment of the ratification process of foreign arbitral awards before the Superior Court of Justice (STJ), considering Brazil s new Code of Civil Procedure, the new internal rules of the Superior Court of Justice, the Arbitration Law and the New York Convention. The thesis also covers two cases, specifically, judged by the Superior Court of Justice: SEC No. 2,410 (Ferrocarriles versus Supervia Concessionária de Transportes Ferroviário S/A) and SEC No. 826 (Ssangyong Corporation versus Eldorado Indústrias Plásticas Ltda). Finally, after the reflection on the research conducted, one argues nationalization of the foreign arbitral award is possible given the new provisions included in Brazil s new Code of Civil Procedure and the acknowledgement thereof by the Superior Court of Justice, in the possibility of nationalization of the arbitral award in the Appeal to the Superior Court of Justice No. 1.231.554 / A presente dissertação de mestrado trata do reconhecimento e da execução da sentença arbitral estrangeira no Brasil. É uma pesquisa teórica e prática das áreas de direito processual civil e direito internacional, uma vez que aborda as mais diversas legislações internacionais e convenções que tratam da arbitragem comercial internacional e o reconhecimento e execução dos laudos arbitrais. Na primeira parte do estudo, serão analisadas as hipóteses de execução direta e nacionalização do laudo arbitral estrangeiro conforme novos dispositivos legais oriundos do Novo Código de Processo Civil. Na segunda parte, será abordado o processo homologatório de sentenças arbitrais estrangeiras perante o Superior Tribunal de Justiça tendo em vista o Novo Código de Processo Civil, o novo regimento interno do Superior Tribunal de Justiça, a Lei de Arbitragem e a Convenção sobre o Reconhecimento e a Execução de Sentenças Arbitrais Estrangeiras ("Convenção de Nova Iorque"). Paralelamente, dois casos, em especial, julgados pelo Superior Tribunal de Justiça, são objeto de análise e investigação: a SEC n. 2.410(Ferrocarriles versus Supervia Concessionária de Transportes Ferroviário S/A) e a SEC n.826 (Ssangyong Corporation versus Eldorado Indústrias Plásticas Ltda). Por fim, após a reflexão do trabalho investigativo, propõe-se concluir pela nacionalização do laudo arbitral estrangeiro levando em consideração as novidades trazidas no novo Código de Processo Civil e o reconhecimento pelo Superior Tribunal de Justiça da possibilidade da nacionalização do laudo arbitral no REsp 1.231.554

The aim of this Master’s thesis is to achieve philosophical clarity on an interpretative problem I have been struggle with in Euripides’ Medea: That Medea murders her own children, while claimingto love them. Situated within the philosophical and literary tradition of ordinary language philosophy and ordinary language criticism, the thesis draws on ideas, theoretical discussions, and concepts from Ludwig Wittgenstein, Toril Moi, Stanley Cavell, Cora Diamond, and Niklas Forsberg – but also Søren Kierkegaard. The analysis is divided in two parts. The first is anarticulation of the grammar of my problem through Cora Diamond’s conception of the phenomenon “a difficulty of reality”, and an emulation of a hermeneutical strategy to deal with such problems, which I identify in Søren Kierkegaard’s Fear and Trembling. I reach the conclusion that the co-existence of Medea’s murder och love is a paradox, which cannot be thought. The second part of the analysis is an attempt to step out of this paradox. Here, I compare Medea to Stanley Cavell’s readings on the Shakespearean tragedies Othello and King Lear, and Cavell’s ideas on “lived scepticism”, “avoidance of love” and “best case of acknowledgment”. By doing this, I am able to form the hypothesis that Medea’s understanding of “love” has been severely damagedafter Jason’s betrayal, and that she actually fails to sensically mean that she loves her children. In its use of my own confusion as a starting point and in employing Toril Moi’s views on reading, this thesis continuously stresses the individual reader’s responsibility in literary interpretation, as well as the importance of daring to voice or personal struggles, questions, and interests – even (or especially) when reading great classics.

The importance of cooperative relaying communication in substituting for, or complementing, multiantenna systems is described, and a brief literature review is presented. Amplify-and-forward (AF) and decode-and-forward (DF) relaying are investigated and compared for a dual-hop relay channel. The optimal strategy, source and relay optimal power allocation, and maximum cooperative gain are determined for the relay channel. It is shown that while DF relaying is preferable to AF relaying for strong source-relay links, AF relaying leads to more gain for strong source-destination or relay-destination links. Superimposed and selection AF relaying are investigated for multirelay, dual-hop relaying. Selection AF relaying is shown to be globally strictly outage suboptimal. A necessary condition for the selection AF outage optimality, and an upper bound on the probability of this optimality are obtained. A near-optimal power allocation scheme is derived for superimposed AF relaying. The maximum instantaneous rates, outage probabilities, and average capacities of multirelay, dual-hop relaying schemes are obtained for superimposed, selection, and orthogonal DF relaying, each with parallel channel cooperation (PCC) or repetition-based cooperation (RC). It is observed that the PCC over RC gain can be as much as 4 dB for the outage probabilities and 8.5 dB for the average capacities. Increasing the number of relays deteriorates the capacity performance of orthogonal relaying, but improves the performances of the other schemes. The application of rateless codes to DF relaying networks is studied by investigating three single-relay protocols, one of which is new, and three novel, low complexity multirelay protocols for dual-hop networks. The maximum rate and minimum energy per bit and per symbol are derived for the single-relay protocols under a peak power and an average power constraint. The long-term average rate and energy per bit, and relay-to-source usage ratio (RSUR), a new performance measure, are evaluated for the single-relay and multirelay protocols. The new single-relay protocol is the most energy efficient single-relay scheme in most cases. All the multirelay protocols exhibit near-optimal rate performances, but are vastly different in the RSUR. Several future research directions for fixed-rate and rateless coded cooperative systems, and frameworks for comparing these systems, are suggested. / Communications

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