Through collecting, gathering and transformation I look at themateriality in bodies of human and animal. The asymmetricalrelation rules we have created to approve our behaviour oftoday. I write this paper with the contradicting approach ofbeing scientific yet sentimental to the meanings of physicalmatter.

Le sujet porte sur les bagues et les anneaux découverts dans les contextes archéologiques datés du Ve au IXe siècle, dans une zone géographique allant de la Loire aux Pyrénées, et de la façade atlantique à l’ouest du Rhône. La période chronologique, assez large, permet d’aborder la question de l’héritage antique du Ve siècle, particulièrement important dans des régions romanisées. Le IXe siècle correspond quant à lui à une forte diminution des dépôts funéraires qui constituent les principaux contextes de découverte des objets de parure. Les études portant sur les bagues et les anneaux ont jusqu’alors essentiellement consisté en l’élaboration d’une typochronologie, que ce soit pour la Gaule romaine ou pour les royaumes mérovingiens septentrionaux. Pour ce travail doctoral un catalogue a été élaboré, il comprend plus de 300 artefacts pour lesquels un classement a été proposé. La singularité de ce travail repose sur l’analyse des pratiques sociales menée à partir des artefacts du Sud-Ouest. En tant qu’objets précieux, le port des bagues et des anneaux reste l’apanage des élites ; elles constituent un marqueur important des identités sociales, de la mémoire familiale et des échanges économiques. Afin d’aborder pleinement cette thématique, l’étude est articulée en quatre parties. Les deux premières sont dévolues à la mise en place de la méthodologie, en portant une attention particulière à l’héritage historiographique dans laquelle l’étude se place. Les deux dernières parties sont consacrées à l’inscription de ces bijoux dans l’espace social du haut Moyen Âge. De leur fabrication à leur réception et à leur transmission, il s’agit de documenter les manipulations dont ils ont fait l’objet et qui leur ont conféré leur valeur, jusqu’à leur dépôt en sépulture. / The subject-matter is the finger ornaments discovered in archaeological contexts, dating from the 5th to the 9th century. The geographical area ranges from the Loire to the Pyrenees, and from the Atlantic coast to the west of the Rhône. The chronological period, which is quite broad, makes it possible to approach the question of the ancient heritage of the fifth century, which is particularly important in romanised regions. The 9th century corresponds to a sharp decrease in funeral deposits, which are the main contexts for the discovery of ornaments. Studies on rings have so far essentially consisted in the development of a typochronology, whether for Roman Gaul or for the northern Merovingian kingdoms. For this doctoral study a catalogue has been elaborated, it includes more than 300 artifacts for which a classification has been proposed. The uniqueness of this work is based on the analysis of social practices using artifacts from the Southwest. As precious objects, the wearing of rings remains the prerogative of the elite; they are an important marker of social identities, family memory and economic exchanges. In order to fully address this theme, the study is divided into four parts. The first two are devoted to the implementation of the methodology, paying particular attention to the historiographical heritage in which the study is placed. The last two parts are devoted to the inscription of these jewels in the social space of the early Middle Ages. From their manufacture to their reception and transmission, it is a question of documenting the manipulations to which they have been subjected and which have given them their value, up to their burial.

The intention of this paper is to explore the contacts between the Swedish province of Scania and Southeastern Europe in the Migration Period. This has been done through comparative studies of four object categories. Parallels to glass, horse trappings, jewellery with inlays and sword decorations found in Scania have been studied in southeastern and centralEurope, as well as the cultures of peoples involved in the Migration processes. The conclusion is that contacts were upheld in several ways: through trade, exchange, alliances and gifts. Old trade routes along the Vistula were used in the south-easterly direction to the Pontic area but were changed to the Moravian Gatein the latter half of the period, while westerly routes probably worked most of the time. The Heruls are thought to have been an important link between Scandinavia,Southeastern Europeand the Huns.

I mend it with sugar         Abstract   "Gluttony" and "sloth" is the sugar addictions best friend, or could it be that the addiction comes out of a disturbed hormone production caused by the environment that surrounds us? Trying to understand my own sugar addiction I weave in my personal story into my artistic research around this subject. The sugar might be the cause of the pandemic obesity and that's why it has to bee brought up into the light from its darkness down the basement of the food giants that roles over the world economy.   There might be no answer yet to the questions I ask myself but it is time that we all do what it takes to get closer to the answers, by questioning the nature of the food that we stuff our self full of, we all have a part of it, or do we? Have our brain already been kidnapped by the white gold that we're no longer capable to think clear?   This is a subject that suits very well to be highlighted through body related art, such as jewellery and corpus. We use our body when we eat, our feelings is coming from the inside of our body, by looking at our body and how it acts we can easily see the signs of how we really feel it's just that we forgot to look, we forgot to listen to our body, maybe it's the sugar that has numb our bodies…

This paper presents an investigation in stages of transformation between body and ornament to show upon their fluid relationship and their role for the creation of human identity. I see the act of adorning the body as an act of desire, in which we take part to become something more elevated than our original state of being. I use my background as a jeweller and the body as the territory for investigating these acts of transformation. Through material explorations I examine how we mirror ourselves in the things we make and how we reinvent our bodies through making. I compare the role of the maker with the scientist and discuss the increased interest in the body and its relation to a more and more virtual reality. I make links between ancient body modifications and human enhancement within new technology and throughout the paper I discuss my work in relation to other artists work and theorists relating to visual practices.

Dans le cadre de ce doctorat sur la représentation des bijoux féminins dans les portraits de l’Égypte romaine, les recherches se concentraient sur les « portraits du Fayoum » et masques funéraires des trois premiers siècles après J.-C.Bien que les masques funéraires et les portraits du Fayoum aient été le sujet de plusieurs publications pendant ces dernières années, il nous manquait encore une étude détaillée sur les bijoux féminins qui s’inspiraient presque exclusivement de la mode romaine. Une classification chronologique de ces portraits, mais aussi des masques funéraires, pouvait être obtenue par les coiffures féminines. Par conséquence, la distinction des portraits par époque nous permettait d’identifier les changements dans la mode des bijoux pendant les trois premiers siècles après J.-C., en donnant aux archéologues la possibilité de classifier encore mieux certains types de bijoux qui sont découverts pendant des fouilles ou sur le marché de l’art. Dans le cadre ce cette étude, les diverses représentations de bijoux, en provenance d’autres provinces romaines mais aussi des originaux, appartenant à des trésors et à des tombes datés étaient également consultés. L’application de nos résultats à d’autres contextes géographiques est toujours légitime, car les mêmes principaux types de bijoux étaient utilisés dans tout l’empire romain.Grâce à toutes ces données, il était possible de reconstruire les différents aspects de la mode des bijoux pour les différentes dynasties impériales pendant les trois premiers siècles après J.-C. / This particular PhD research project focuses on the representation of jewellery on “Fayum portraits” and mummy masks from Roman Egypt. Even though Roman mummy masks and the so called “Fayum portraits” have been the subject of numerous research in recent years, a detailed study on the individuals’ jewellery is still missing up to this date. This is particularly regrettable because females on these portraits are almost exclusively wearing Roman-type jewellery. A chronological order that includes a precise dating must be obtained by the female hairstyles that have been influenced by Roman fashion dispersed in the Roman Empire through representations in form of busts, coins and paintings of the Empresses and members of the imperial families. Consequently, this chronological order allows us to identify the various changes in the jewellery fashion throughout the imperial dynasties of the first three centuries A.D. A goal of the chronological classification of jewellery in the art of Roman Egypt is to help future researchers to date jewellery more precisely, in particular – which is quite common for jewellery - when their provenance is unknown or imprecise. The results will be complemented by representations of jewellery in art from other regions of the Empire but also by actual dated finds. Finally, all these factors will help to obtain a better understanding of Roman jewellery fashion, its distribution and even more which types were “à la mode” at what particular time.

Svobodová, M.: Jewellery and its place in Art Education at elementary school/ graduation thesis / Prague 2011 / Charles University in Prague, faculty of Education - department of Art Education, p. 103 The theoretical background of this diploma thesis describes a brief history and development of the jewellery from the prehistoric times to the present days. It focuses mainly on the new history of production and jewellery design and tries to watch up the origin of author's jewel, mainly the trend of the non-traditional materials creation. In today's production, it presents a few alternative Czech designers and their work. Two creative successions that were realized with elementary school children are presented in didactical part. The last, creative section of the thesis presents author's own piece of work.

On May 7, 1581, Elisabet Vasa, Princess of Sweden, married Duke Kristoffer of Mecklenburg. The Princess was equipped with a large dowry and, by Swedish standards, an extensive collection of objects, including jewellery. The essay's thesis is that the official jewellery that Elisabet brought with her to her new court were identity-creating symbols of a performative nature that would consciously strengthen the legitimacy of the new Vasa dynasty on the international stage. The essay is based on a comparative analysis of inventories from 1581, 1593 and 1597. The essay examines and discusses the donors' and recipient's agency, or "touch", and intentions with the jewellery. The essay's result shows that parts of the thesis - that the official jewellery that Elisabet brought with her among the gifts in 1581 were identity-creating symbols of a performative nature - appear to be highly probable based on the few but significant art acts that have been possible to trace in sources and archives. According to the material of the existing study, however, the jewellery did not fulfil its intended function of strengthening the Vasa dynasty and its legitimacy on the international stage as Elisabet herself had different intentions and apparently actively worked to assimilate to her new environment as Duchess of Mecklenburg.

The aim of this thesis is to investigate the social role of women in the Viking Age on Gotland. The female jewellery articulated the Gotlandic identity on the island in the Viking Age, unlike the men's jewellery which expressed similarities with other places in Scandinavia. Therefore, the female jewellery can be seen as traces of an important cultural expression that distinguished the Gotlandic women from others. The understanding of which types of jewellery that are considered to be linked to the female gender during the Viking Age is based on a number of excavated graves. The jewellery in graves have been researched for a long time. However, there is another category that includes jewellery which have been neglected, namely hoards. Therefore, this thesis investigates female jewellery in graves to understand the composition of jewellery in hoards. The purpose of this is to interpret if the hoards can express a female gender identity, similar to the female gender identity in graves based on the composition of jewellery. This is realized through the use of performativity and embodiment theory. The similarities and the differences between the jewellery in graves and hoards are investigated through a correspondence analysis. The result show that the differences between the composition of jewellery in graves and hoards are meaningful. The graves consists of a more complete set of jewellery made of bronze, whereas the hoards are interpreted to consist of parts of a complete set or a larger number of the same type of jewellery. The hoards also contain more jewellery made of precious metals than the graves. The hoards are intrepreted as savings of vaiable jewellery that could be resumed and used again by women. The Guta Law is applied in this thesis to contribute to the understanding of who owned the jewellery that women wore. The result is that women did not own the jewellry individually. Instead it was owned collectively by the family but that women might have had the responsebility of the jewellery during their lifetime. It is interpreted that women, through the use of Gotlandic jewellery, had the social role in society to show off the family wealth and their Gotlandic identity. Therefore, it is argued that women played a crucial part in public gatherings and had an active role in the Gotlandic society in the Viking Age.

Afrikaans text / Hierdie studie spreek die beperkte en eensydige beriggewing oor vroue en vroulike skoonheid in die Hebreeuse Bybel en ander antieke geskrifte aan, asook die ondergeskikte posisie wat vroue in die patriargale Ou Testamentiese samelewing beklee het. ‘n Argeologiese benadering word gevolg en beskikbare literêre bronne word gebruik. Daar word gelet op die redes waarom ‘n mooi voorkoms vir vroue so belangrik was. Hul posisie ten opsigte van staatkundige, wetlike, godsdienstige, ekonomiese en huishoudelike aangeleenthede en hul lewensverloop word bespreek. Die studie fokus hoofsaaklik op vroue van ou Israel en Egipte – vir ‘n goeie vergelyking. Inligting oor vroue van die ou Nabye Ooste en Mediterreense wêreld word waar van toepassing ook in aanmerking geneem. Vroue se skoonheidsmiddels, parfuums, juweliersware en kleredrag word bespreek – asook die invloed van vroue se skoonheidspraktyke op die ekonomie en handel van antieke tye. Die slot- hoofstuk maak sekere afleidings en dui enkele onderwerpe vir verdere navorsing aan. / This study addresses the limited and one-sided reporting about women and female beauty in the Hebrew Bible and other ancient literary sources, as well as the subservient position the women experience in the patriarchal Old Testament society. An archaeological approach is followed, although literary sources are also used. Attention is given to women’s position with reference to governmental, legal, religious and domestic issues, their course of life and the reasons why a beautiful and attractive appearance was important. The research focuses mainly on the women of ancient Israel and Egypt – for the purpose of comparison. Information on women of the ancient Near East and Mediterranean world is also taken into account. Women’s cosmetics, perfumes, jewelry and clothing are discussed – as well as the influence of women’s beauty practices on the economy and trade of ancient times. The final chapter makes certain deductions and some aspects are recommended for further study. / Old Testament & Ancient Near Eastern Studies / M. A. (Biblical Archaeology)