Orientador: João Sinezio de Carvalho Campos / Tese (doutorado) - Universidade Estadual de Campinas, Faculdade de Engenharia Quimica / Made available in DSpace on 2018-08-10T13:40:00Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 Giordano_JoaoBatista_D.pdf: 4390680 bytes, checksum: 205aa7153da8e4745f9366e58adcb8cf (MD5) Previous issue date: 2007 / Resumo: Dentre as técnicas de modificação de superfícies aplicadas na indústria para melhorar adesão, o tratamento por descarga corona é amplamente utilizado. Durante o tratamento por descarga coro na, espécies ativas são geradas, as quais podem reagir com a superfície do polímero ocasionando quebra de cadeias e formação de radicais, criando assim grupos polares na superfície e conseqüentemente, aumentando a sua energia superficial e propriedade de adesão. Neste trabalho utilizaram-se tecidos de poliéster e de algodão. Nos processos convencionais de preparação de tecidos são usados agentes químicos que agridem os efluentes têxteis, assim a descarga corona propõe-se como tratamento prévio do material sem ação de tais agentes, sendo tratamento único e apenas físico. Os objetivos deste trabalho são: 1. Tratar com descarga corona tecidos de poliéster e tecidos de algodão (engomado, lavado e desengomado); 2. Verificar hidrofilidade e absorção de corantes em tecidos de algodão tratados com descarga corona; 3. Verificar propriedades mecânicas em tecidos tratados com descarga corona. 4. Verificar a adesão de pigmentos em de tecidos de poliéster tratados com corona. Tecidos foram submetidos à descarga: corona variando-se o tempo exposição e altura entre os eletrodos, em seguida foi realizada testes de hídrofilidade, absorção de corante tipo reativo, adesão de pigmentos, solidez a lavagem e ensaios de resistência à tração e alongamento. Foi utilizada a técnica de microscopia óptica, ensaio de hidrofilidade para caracterizar os efeitos causados. Os resultados mostram que: houve aumento da hidrofilidade do tecido de algodão que de 50% em amostra sem tratamento passou até a 280% com o tratamento, observou-se também que com te~pos de 1 mino já ocorrem modificações nos tecidos quanto a hidrofilidade e absorção de corantes; houve aumento da absorção de corante nas regiões tratadas principalmente em processos contínuos de tingimento; ocorreu boa aderência de pigmentos em tecidos de poliéster tratados; não ocorrem alteração das propriedades mecânicas (resistência a tração e alongamento) nas amostras tratadas. / Abstract: Amongst the techniques of modification of surfaces applied in the industry to improve adhesion, the treatment for discharge corona widely is used. During the treatment for discharge corona, active species are generated, which can consequently react with the surface of polymer causing chain in addition and formation of radicals, thus creating polar groups in the surface and, increasing its superficial energy and property of adhesion. In this work they had been used weaveed of polyester and cotton. In the conventional processes of fabric preparation they are used chemical agents whom the effluent textile attack, thus the discharge corona is considered as previous treatment of the material without action of such agents, being treatment only e only physicist. The objectives of this work are: 1.To deal with discharge corona weaveed to polyester and fabrics cotton (starchy, washed and dissolved the gum); 2. To verify water absorption and absorption of corantes in fabrics of cotton treated with discharge corona; to 3.Verificar mechanical properties in fabrics dealt with discharge corona. 4. To verify the pigment adhesion in of treated polyester fabrics with corona. Fabrics had been submitted to the discharge corona varying the time exposition and height between the electrodes and, after that water absorption tests had been carried through, absorption of corante reactive type, pigment adhesion, solidity the laudering and assays of tensile strenght and allonge. The technique of optic microscopy was used, assay of water absorption to characterize the caused effect. The results show that: it had increase of the hidrofilidade of the cotton fabric that of 50% in sample without treatment passed until 280% with the treatment, was 9.lso observed that with times of 1 min. already the water absorption and absorption of corantes occur modifications in fabrics how much; it had increase of the absorption of corante in the regions treated mainly in continuous processes of dyeing good pigment tack occurred in treat polyester fabrics; they do not occur alteration of the mechanical properties (resistance the traction and allonge) in the treated samples. / Doutorado / Ciencia e Tecnologia de Materiais / Doutor em Engenharia Química

M. Tech. (Department of Chemical Engineering, Faculty of Engineering and Technology), Vaal University of Technology / Fenton oxidation is classified into two processes, homogeneous and heterogeneous. Homogeneous Fenton oxidation process, have been shown to be efficient in the degradation of organic pollutants. However, it was shown to have limitations which can be addressed by the heterogeneous Fenton oxidation. Despite the high efficiency of the heterogeneous Fenton oxidation process in the degradation of recalcitrant organic pollutants, the currents synthesis trends of the heterogeneous Fenton catalyst have been proven to be time and energy constraining, since it involves the multi-step were the activated carbon have to be prepared first then co-precipitate the iron oxide on the activated carbon. However, as much as the heterogeneous Fenton catalyst has been proven to have high catalytic activity towards degradation of organic pollutants, these catalysts have some limitations, such limitations include metal ions being leached from the catalyst support into the treated water causing catalyst deactivation and a secondary pollution to the treated water. In this thesis, these catalysts have been applied in the degradation of recalcitrant organic pollutants such as methylene blue and phenols. This study focuses on the single step synthesis of iron oxide nanoparticles supported on activated carbon, were carbonaceous material is impregnated with iron salt then pyrolysed via microwave heating. Microwave power and the amount of iron salt were optimized. The prepared activated carbon-iron oxide composites were applied to the degradation of 2-nitrophenol (2-NP) and methylene blue (MB). Methylene blue was used as a model compound due to the fact that it is easier to monitor the degradation process with UV-Vis as compared to 2-nitrophenol . 2-nitrophenol the additional step for the adjustment of pH is required since nitrophenols are colorless in color at lower pH. The characterization showed that the microwave power and the amount of the iron precursor have an influence on the porosity and surface functional groups of the activated carbon. Further it was vi observed that microwave power and iron precursor influnces the amount of iron oxide formed on the surface of the support. It was also observed that the activated carbon-iron oxide composite have the catalytic effects on the Fenton oxidation process of MB and 2-NP. The parameters such as H2O2, pH, catalyst dose, initial concentration, temperature affect the degradation of both MB and 2-NP. Kinetics studies showed that Fenton is a surface driven reaction since the results fitted the pseudo first order model. The thermodynamics parameters also showed that the reaction is endothermic, spontaneous and is randomized. This implies that the reaction of the degradation of MB and 2-NP is feasible and the catalysts prepared have high catalytic activity. MB and 2-NP were degraded to smaller organic molecules (carboxylic acids). The stability of the catalyst observed to decrease as the number of cycles increased, this is due to the leaching of iron ions from the support material. Hence it was concluded that the activated carbon-iron oxide composite was successfully synthesized and had the high catalytic activity for the degradation of MB and 2-NP.

PhDENV / Department of Ecology and Resource Management / Some industries such as textiles, ceramics, paper and printing are known to use significant amounts of dye to colour their products and during the colouring process, certain quantities of dyes are absorbed by the products, and some of them end up in wastewater. Depending on their application, some synthetic dyes are designed to be chemically or biologically resistant and their presence in the environment can cause severe environmental problems because of their colour impartation to water bodies. Therefore, proper treatment is required to remove these pollutants from wastewater before discharge into the environment. In this thesis, the potential of dye removal from wastewater by calcined magnesite, halloysite nanoclay and calcined magnesite - halloysite nanoclay composite was evaluated. To this end, the study was subdivided to four segments. The first segment of the study focused on evaluating the efficiency of using calcined magnesite to remove Methylene Blue (MB), Direct Red 81 (DR81), Methyl Orange (MO) and Crystal Violet (CV) dyes from aqueous systems using a batch study. To achieve that, several operational factors like residence time, adsorbent dosage, dye concentration and temperature were appraised. The adsorbent was subjected to different kinds of physicochemical characterization to determine the various characteristics that would assist in the dye uptake process. Characterization results showed that the adsorbent material was highly crystalline with magnesite, periclase, dolomite, and quartz as some of the crystalline phases. The batch study proved that calcined magnesite is effective in the treatment of dye contaminated water and moreover it performed well in terms of colour removal, though exceptional results were recorded for CV removal with complete decolourisation occurring in first few minutes of contact. In terms of experimental adsorption capacity, the performance of calcined magnesite was in the order CV (14.99 mg/g) > DR81 (12.56 mg/g) > MO (0.64 mg/g) > MB (0.39 mg/g). Mechanisms of adsorption where explained by fitting the experimental data into adsorption isotherms, kinetics, and thermodynamic parameters. Neither, the Langmuir, nor the Freundlich nor the Dubinin Radushkevich, nor the Temkin model could perfectly describe the adsorption of the four dyes onto calcined magnesite, however adsorption kinetics obeyed the pseudo second order model, implying that, the dye removal process was primarily a chemical process. In accordance with the results of this study, it can be concluded that calcined magnesite can be used effectively for the removal of dyes in aqueous solution and thus can be applied to treat wastewater containing dyes. The second segment of the study focused on the removal of MB, DR81, MO and CV dyes by halloysite nanoclay. Physicochemical characterisation revealed that the nanoclay has a surface area of 42 m²/g and its ABSTRACT iv morphology is predominated by tubular structures, which exhibit some hollow rod like structures. Various important parameters namely contact time, initial concentration of dyes, dosage, solution temperature and solution pH were optimized to achieve maximum adsorption capacity and it was observed that the effect of initial pH and temperature of the aqueous solution was neglibible on removal of the four dyes. The experimental adsorption capacities towards 40 mg/L of MB, DR81, MO and CV dyes were 17.51, 14.11, 0.38, and 4.75 mg/g respectively. The results indicate that natural halloysite nanoclay is an efficient material for the removal of the selected dyes. Due to its low cost and non-toxicity, halloysite nanoclay can be considered a good replacement option of other high cost materials used to treat coloured wastewater especially in developing countries like South Africa. Having observed the performance of calcined magnesite and halloysite nanoclay individually in the removal of selected dyes, a third study was designed with the aim of preparing a nanocomposite adsorbent from the aforementioned adsorbent materials and then evaluating the synergistic influence of the mechanochemical modification by a ball miller on the removal of MB, DR81, MO and CV dyes. Physicochemical characterization was carried out to get an insight of pre- and -post adsorption characteristics of the nanocomposite material and results showed major changes which could be an indication of dye uptake by the nanocomposite material. According to the results, the nanocomposite material outcompeted its component individual constituent materials i.e (calcined magnesite and halloysite nanoclay material) in the removal of DR81, which in turn was the highest removal efficiency observed for the whole batch adsorption study recording a maximum adsorption capacity and percentage removal of 19.89 mg/g and 99.40% respectively. Experimental results fitted the Langmuir and pseudo-second order models perfectly hence demonstrating that adsorption took place on a homogenous adsorbent layer via chemisorption. In overall, the results suggested that the nanocomposite is a suitable adsorbent for decolourising industrial wastewater. Based on the overall performance of the adsorbents in removing the four dyes, it was observed that the nanocomposite material had a high affinity for DR81 dye hence it was chosen as the model dye for further application in column studies. The effect of flow rate, bed height and initial dye concentration on the removal of DR81 was investigated. Maximum bed capacity and equilibrium dye uptake were determined and break through curves were plotted. Percentage dye removal increased with decrease in flow rate and increase in bed height. The maximum capacity of column was found to be about 51.73 mg DR81 per gram of the nanocomposite adsorbent for a flow rate of 3 mL/min, initial concentration of 10 mg/L and 4 cm bed height. Data from column studies was fitted to the Thomas model and Adams-Bohart models. The comparison of the R2 values obtained from both models showed a better fit for the nanocomposite material than the individual halloysite nanoclay and calcined magnesite materials. The study revealed the applicability of calcined magnesite- halloysite nanoclay composite in fixed bed column for the removal of DR81 dye from aqueous solution. v The reuse of an adsorbent is essential in order to make the adsorption process economic and environmentally friendly. To recover the adsorbate and renew the adsorbent for further use, a chemical method of regeneration was applied by using 0.1 M NaOH as the desorbent. Regeneration with 0.1 M NaOH proved very efficient for some dyes and less efficient for others depending on the adsorbent material used at the time. The general observation was that the adsorption capacity of the adsorbent materials decreased with successive adsorption – desorption cycles. Furthermore, regeneration with NaOH, favoured the acidic dyes (DR81 and MO) more than the basic dyes (MB and CV) possibly due to electrostatic interactions between oppositely charged molecules allowing for reversible reactions to take place. The three tested adsorbents namely calcined magnesite, halloysite nanoclay and their nanocomposite thereof were applied for the treatment of real wastewater effluent from a printing and ink industry. The adsorbents performed very well in terms of colour removal as recommended by the South African standards of wastewater discharge, However, in terms of pH, calcined magnesite and the nanocomposite produced a highly alkaline solution hence wastewater neutralisation by an acid is recommended before discharge. These findings show that the two natural clay-based materials (calcined magnesite and halloysite nanoclay) and their nanocomposite thereof have a great potential for application in dye wastewater remediation since the materials used in the process are inexpensive, abundant and require minimal modifications. / NRF

Denna uppsats syftar till att utforska vilka textilfibrer och färgningsmetoder som har låg miljöpåverkan och hur dessa ska införas i modeindustrin. För att undersöka detta har jag använt intervju och tematisk analys som metod där jag intervjuat två forskare, en återvinningsanläggning och två modeföretag. Drivkrafter och hinder som driver på och försvårar användning av miljövänligare textilfibrer och färgningsmetoder belyses där ett stort hinder för cirkulärt mode är ekonomi där företag och kunder tjänar mer på billigare och sämre textilfibrer samt färgningsmetoder. Ett alternativ för att sänka kostnaden är subventioner eller skatteavdrag på miljömärkta kläder i butik samt skattepålägg på syntetkläder som säljs. Modeindustrin är den näst mest förorenande industrin efter oljeindustrin med 10% av världens koldioxidutsläpp. Textilindustrin är en av tio industrier som förbrukar mest vatten. Sverige är en stor aktör i modebranschen där flera svenska företag är etablerade internationellt och samtidigt ses som en representant för cirkulärt mode. Internationellt är polyester den vanligaste använda textilfibern idag och svenska företag går emot normen förde använder främst bomull som är en förnybar textilfiber. Användning av hållbara textilfibrer är större än hållbara färgningsmetoder i Sverige men en väletablerad modekedja har utvecklat miljövänligare färgningsmetoder med sina leverantörer. Slutsatser jag dragit är att återvunna och cellulosafibrer kommer öka i framtiden samt att ekonomiska incitament är viktiga för miljöarbete med textilfibrer och färgningsmetoder. Kunskap och information är också en viktig komponent för att göra miljövänliga val i modeindustrin. / This essay aims to explore which textile fibers and dyeing methods have a low environmental impact and how these will be introduced in the fashion industry. I have used interview and thematic analysis as a method to investigate this area where I have interviewed two scientists, one recycling facility and two fashion companies. Drivers and obstacles that drives and complicates utilization of more environmentally friendly textile fibers and dyeing methods are casted light on, where a big obstacle for circular fashion is economy where companies and customers earn money on cheaper and inferior textile fibers and dyeing methods. An option to lowering the cost is subsidies or tax deductions for environmentally marked clothes in stores and tax additions for synthetic clothes which is for sale. The fashion industry is the most polluting industry after the oil industry with 10% of the carbon emissions in the world. The textile industry is one of ten industries which consumes the most water. Sweden is a large actor in the fashion industry with several international established Swedish companies and is seen as a representative of circular fashion at the same time. The most common textile fiber today is polyester but Swedish companies foremost utilize cotton which is a renewable textile fiber. Utilization of sustainable textile fibers is more common than sustainable dyeing methods in Sweden, but a well-established fashion chain has developed more environmentally friendly dyeing methods with their suppliers. Conclusions I have made are that recyclable and cellulosic fibers will increase in the future and economic instruments are crucial for the environmental work with textile fibers and dyeing methods. Knowledge and information are also important components to make environmentally friendly choices in the fashion industry.

Indiana University-Purdue University Indianapolis (IUPUI) / Microspectrophotometry is a quick, accurate, and reproducible method to compare colored fibers for forensic purposes. The use of chemometric techniques applied to spectroscopic data can provide valuable discriminatory information especially when looking at a complex dataset. Differentiating a group of samples by employing chemometric analysis increases the evidential value of fiber comparisons by decreasing the probability of false association. The aims of this research were to (1) evaluate the chemometric procedure on a data set consisting of blue acrylic fibers and (2) accurately discriminate between yellow polyester fibers with the same dye composition but different dye loadings along with introducing a multivariate calibration approach to determine the dye concentration of fibers. In the first study, background subtracted and normalized visible spectra from eleven blue acrylic exemplars dyed with varying compositions of dyes were discriminated from one another using agglomerative hierarchical clustering (AHC), principal component analysis (PCA), and discriminant analysis (DA). AHC and PCA results agreed showing similar spectra clustering close to one another. DA analysis indicated a total classification accuracy of approximately 93% with only two of the eleven exemplars confused with one another. This was expected because two exemplars consisted of the same dye compositions. An external validation of the data set was performed and showed consistent results, which validated the model produced from the training set. In the second study, background subtracted and normalized visible spectra from ten yellow polyester exemplars dyed with different concentrations of the same dye ranging from 0.1-3.5% (w/w), were analyzed by the same techniques. Three classes of fibers with a classification accuracy of approximately 96% were found representing low, medium, and high dye loadings. Exemplars with similar dye loadings were able to be readily discriminated in some cases based on a classification accuracy of 90% or higher and a receiver operating characteristic area under the curve score of 0.9 or greater. Calibration curves based upon a proximity matrix of dye loadings between 0.1-0.75% (w/w) were developed that provided better accuracy and precision to that of a traditional approach.

PhD (Department of Chemistry, Faculty of Applied and Computer Sciences), Vaal University of Technology. / Water is a basic resource to mankind. The environment is deteriorating daily due to industrial pollution of water resources. Industrial effluents containing organic pollutants such as dyes are undesirable even at low concentrations in the environment. Natural biomaterials have been applied as adsorbents for dye removal from water systems, however, their application has been limited by their low adsorption capacity. Much attention has been focused on the chemical modification of natural biomass via grafting processes. The modification of natural polymers by graft copolymerization is a promising technique since it functionalizes a biopolymer thus imparting desirable properties. The purpose of the study was to prepare and optimize the working conditions for the pine-magnetite bionanocomposites (PMC) as adsorbents and as photocatalysts modifiers. First, this work focuses on the synthesis and optimization of reaction variables in the preparation of PMC for the removal of methylene blue (MB). The thesis also explores the synthesis of acrylamide and acrylic acid-grafted PMC, resulting in the formation of acrylamide-grafted PMC (GACA) and acrylic acid-grafted pine-magnetite bionanocomposites (GAA), respectively. The grafting of functional groups such as –CO, –NH2 onto cellulose from acrylamides is also explored in detail. The adsorption conditions optimized were used to investigate the adsorption efficiency of GAA and GACA on MB. Finally, the application of PMC and GAA as modifiers for amorphous TiO2 and N-doped TiO2was carried out. The photocatalytic bionanocomposites from PMC (namely PMC–a-C,TiO2 and PMC–a-C,NTiO2) and those from GAA (labeled GAA–a-C,TiO2 and GAA–a-C,NTiO2) are compared by their photocatalytic efficiency on the degradative removal of an alkaline dye mixture formed from Reactive red 120 (RR 120) and Rhodamine B (Rh B). The synthesis procedure for PMC involved treating pinecone biomass with 0.15 M NaOH solution to remove unwanted plant extracts and the subsequent coating of the treated pinecone with iron oxide magnetic particles through a co-precipitation method. The variables used for the experiments were volume of NH4OH (5 to 40 cm3), reaction temperature (40 to 100 °C), effect of time (15 to 60 min) and mass (1.0 to 3.5 g). The PMC and acrylic acid grafted pine-magnetite composite (GAA) were probed for structural morphology and surface properties using various surface characterization instrumental techniques. Strong chemical interactions between pinecone magnetite and acrylic acid were demonstrated by thermogravimetric (TGA), differential thermal analysis (DTA) and X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy (XPS) for these unique bionanocomposites as such suggesting high chemical stability. Grafting acrylic acid was shown by XPS to form polyacrylic acid on the surface of the bionanocomposites and thus capping the surface groups. Significant differences in size were shown by transmission electron spectroscopy (TEM) and scanning electron microscopy (SEM); i.e., smaller particle sizes (Ave = 13.0 nm) for GAA and slightly larger for PMC (Ave = 14.0 nm). Brunauer Emmett Teller (BET) surface analysis demonstrated a larger surface area, pore volume and pore diameter (59.9 m2.g-1, 0.2254 cm3.g-1 and 28.14) for GAA compared to PMC. These characteristics coupled with the point of zero charge for GAA (pHpzc = 6.8) were critical in enhancing the efficiency of GAA adsorption of MB at pH 12 and further enable GAA to have a higher desorption efficiency of up to 99.7% after four cycles of washing with 0.10 M HCl. The adsorption kinetics and isotherm studies indicated that the adsorption process follows the pseudo second order kinetics and Langmuir isotherm respectively. The adsorbent also showed improvement in the adsorption capacity and reusability promising to be used for the removal of dyes in a prototype scale. GAA and MB adsorption mechanism was confirmed to be through intra particle diffusion. The overall performance of the GAA bionanocomposites is hinged on the formation of polyacrylic acid on the surface, its structural morphology, and the enhanced surface properties. Most importantly, the plant-based materials (lignin and cellulose) provide an environment that is rich with surface (–COOH and –OH) groups for the attachment of the magnetite nanoparticles while the polyacrylic acid stabilizes the magnetite onto the pinecone nanoparticles while reducing the point of zero charge for increased adsorption of cationic species. The photocatalytic bionanocomposites were fabricated from the adsorptive bionanocomposites using a simple solgel process in which ~10 wt.% of PMC and GAA, respectively, were used as a starting agent. Titanium butoxide was used as a precursor, acetylacetone as a dispersant and ethylene diamine as a nitrogen source. Using this procedure, amorphous carbon-doped titania (a-C,TiO2) and amorphous carbon and nitrogen co-doped titania (a-C,NTiO2) were fabricated except that the biopolymer was not added. Two sets of amorphous titania bionanocomposites were fabricated. One set was the nitrogen doped forms that had been modified with PMC and GAA (PMC–a-C,TiO2 and GAA–a-C,NTiO2). The other set of photocatalytic bionanocomposites produced in this work were without nitrogen (PMC–a-C,TiO2 and GAA–a-C,TiO2). TEM and SEM micrographs showed that all the photocatalysts consisted of globular, smooth aggregates of nanosized a-CTiO2 and a-C,NTiO2 which decreased in size with N-doping and the incorporation of GAA and PMC to as low as <30 nm. Surface chemical analysis through FTIR, XPS and EDS confirmed the presence of C, O, Ti and N (for the N-doped photocatalysts). In addition, it was demonstrated that N-doping into TiO2 had taken place, albeit with most of the N incorporated as organic nitrogen. It was further demonstrated that because of the absence of high temperature calcination, the process chemicals played a significant role in doping the photocatalysts with carbon resulting in the promotion of photocatalytic activity for a-C,TiO2 to the point of surpassing that of, a-C,NTiO2 and all the PMC-modified photocatalytic bionanocomposites. a-C,TiO2 had an overall 94% removal of the dyes, Rhodamine B (RhB) and Reactive red 120(RR 120), under UV illumination. The benefit of co-doping a-TiO2 with C, N and the biopolymers was realized with the incorporation of GAA as a modifier. The result was 97% removal of the dyes by GAA–a-CTiO2 and 99% for GAA–a-C,NTiO2. It was further observed that the degradation of the binary mixture of the dyes (RhB and RR 120) proceeded through the zero order kinetics for the a-C,TiO2 based photocatalysts and first order kinetics for the N-doped photocatalysts. The work, has, therefore demonstrated the applicability of plant-based biopolymers in the fabrication of nanoadsorbents and nanophotocatalysts. While the photocatalytic degradations were carried out under UV-light, there still remains a number of possible avenues that researchers can build on to improve the visible light-driven photocatalytic bionanocomposites. The research work has proven the effectiveness of novel pinecone magnetic nanoparticle materials and TiO2-based photocatalyst for the degradation of undesirable dyes from wastewater.

Objectif Estimer les associations entre les expositions professionnelles aux fibres/poussières textiles et le risque de cancer du sein post-ménopausique. Méthodes Une étude cas-témoins populationnelle menée à Montréal (20082011) a identifié les cas incidents (N=695) dans les hôpitaux et les témoins (appariés par groupe d’âge) sur la liste électorale provinciale (N=608). Les renseignements sur leurs facteurs de risque personnels et leurs antécédents professionnels ont été recueillis lors d’entrevues. Des hygiénistes du travail ont évalué ces antécédents afin d’attribuer des expositions professionnelles à plusieurs fibres naturelles et synthétiques. Les indices d'exposition calculés comprenaient: toute exposition antérieure (exposée/non-exposée), intensité cumulative moyenne d’exposition et exposition cumulative moyenne. Pour l’ensemble des tumeurs et selon leur classification biomoléculaire, une régression logistique a été utilisée pour calculer les rapports de cotes (RC) et les intervalles de confiance à 95% (IC95%), avec différents modèles incluant divers facteurs de confusion. Des analyses de sensibilité ont permis d’évaluer la robustesse des estimations. Résultats Une association a été trouvée pour toute exposition antérieure au polyester (RCmodèle8=0,55; IC95%:0,33-0,91). Quelques tendances ont été trouvées pour le même indice d’exposition avec les fibres synthétiques (RCmodèle8=0,63; IC95%:0,38-1,05) et le coton (RCmodèle8=1,42; IC95%:0,95-2,16), et, dans une analyse de sensibilité n’incluant que les expositions avant l'âge de 36 ans ou la première grossesse à terme, avec les fibres naturelles (RCmodèle8=1,59; IC95%:0,95-2,74) et les fibres traitées (RCmodèle2=1,39; IC95%:0,97-2,01). L’analyse par sous-type biomoléculaire n’a révélé aucune tendance. Conclusion Notre étude suggère la possibilité d’associations entre l’exposition professionnelle à certaines fibres textiles et le risque de cancer du sein post-ménopausique. / Objective To estimate the associations between occupational exposures to textile fibers/dusts, and postmenopausal breast cancer risk. Methods A population-based case-control study conducted in Montreal (20082011) identified incident cases (N = 695) in hospitals and frequency age-matched controls from the provincial electoral list (N = 608). Information on subjects’ personal risk factors and occupational history were collected through interviews. Occupational hygienists assessed these histories to attribute occupational exposures to several natural and synthetic fibers. Exposure indices included: any previous exposure (exposed/unexposed), average cumulative intensity of exposure and average cumulative exposure, among others. For all tumors and according to their biomolecular classification, logistic regression was used to calculate odds ratios (OR) and 95% confidence intervals (95%CI), with different models including various confounders. Sensitivity analyses were used to assess the robustness of the estimates. Results An association was found for any previous exposure to polyester (ORmodel8=0.55; 95%CI: 0.33-0.91). Some trends were found for the same exposure index with synthetic fibers (ORmodel8=0.63; 95%CI: 0.38-1.05) and cotton (ORmodel8=1.42, 95%CI: 0.95-2.16), and, in the sensitivity analysis including only exposures before the age of 36 or before the first full-term pregnancy, with natural fibers (ORmodel8=1.59; 95%CI: 0.95-2.74) and treated textile fibers (ORmodel2=1.39; 95%CI: 0.97-2.01). Analysis by tumor biomolecular subtype revealed no differences. Conclusion Our study suggests possible associations between occupational exposure to certain textile fibers and postmenopausal breast cancer risk.

Den här rapporten är en studie av textilindustrin. Rapporten ingår i kursen Examensarbete inom industriell produktion som ingår i Civilingenjörsprogrammet Maskinteknik. Studien är relevant i tiden då mycket forskning sker för att lösa de nuvarande respektive framtida problemen. Vi konsumerar mycket textilier, nästan 14 kg per person per år, varav 10kg är bara kläder. En stor mängd av dessa textilier, hela 73 procent, går till spillo istället för att återanvändas eller återvinnas. Samtidigt produceras också många nya textilier med icke-hållbara resurser som bland annat fossila energikällor och giftiga kemikalier, vilka i sin tur har allvarliga effekter på miljön. Produktionskedjan har således en väldigt stor miljöpåverkan. De aspekter som tas upp i studien är därför hållbarhet, återvinning, ekonomiska perspektiv såsom cirkulär ekonomi och konsumentsyn. Studien går även in på material och resurser. Syftet med studien är att delge läsaren kunskap om textiliers kretslopp och problemen som finns inom industrin med hänsyn till miljön. Frågeställningen fokuserar kring hur den ekonomiska lönsamheten bör uppnås inom företag för att ha ett hållbart och cirkulärt system. Litteraturstudie utfördes där det ingick bland annat organisationsrapporter och vetenskapliga rapporter med mera. För att få en verklig uppfattning intervjuades kunniga personer inom den textila branschen. En från Smart Textiles och en annan från Nordiska Textilakademin (NTA). Dessa intervjuer gav en verklig uppfattning om situationen inom textilindustrin. Efter slutförd studie är slutsatsen att problemen som finns är väldigt komplexa och det krävs mycket arbete för att lösa de för att få ett resurseffektivt, hållbart och cirkulärt system. Men trots det kan vi med största sannolikhet gå mot en mer hållbar textilindustri från ett miljöperspektiv genom att utveckla lönsamma återvinningstekniker, tillämpa rätt cirkulära affärsmodeller inom både etablerade och nya verksamheter, designa med hänsyn till produktlivscykeln, öka resurseffektiviteten och hanterar textilavfall på rätt sätt. / This report is a study about the textile industry. The report is a part of the bachelor’s thesis course in Industrial Production given at KTH Royal Institute of Technology as a part of the Mechanical Engineering program. The study is relevant in time, because a lot of research is currently going on to solve the current and future problems in the textile industry. We consume a lot of textiles, nearly 14 kilograms per person per year, of which 10 kilogram is only clothes. A significant amount of these textiles goes to waste (73 percent) instead of being reused or recycled. At the same time a lot of new textiles are also being produced with non-sustainable resources such as fossil fuels and toxic chemicals, which in turn has severe environmental impacts. Thus, the production chain has a very large environmental impact. The aspects that are addressed in the report are therefore sustainability, recycling, economic perspectives such as circular economy and the consumer perspective. The study also discusses materials and resources. The purpose of the study is to provide the reader with knowledge about the textile loop and the problems that exist in the industry with focus on the environment. The study tries to answer the question on how financial profitability could be achieved within companies in order to have a sustainable and circular system. A literature study has been conducted consisting of reports from organisational reports as well as scientific reports and more. People with knowledge about sustainability within the textile industry were interviewed to get an empirical ground on this case, one from Smart Textiles and another one from the Nordiska Textilakademin. These interviews gave an actual insight of the situation in the textile industry. The conclusion is that the problems which exist are very complex and a lot of work is required to solve them in order to have a resource-efficient, sustainable and circular system. Despite this, we can most likely move towards a more sustainable textile industry from an environmental perspective, by developing profitable recycling techniques, applying the righ tcircular business models in both established and new businesses, designing with regard to the product life cycle, increasing resource efficiency and handling textile waste properly.