Med pågående klimatförändringar och en fortsatt ökande konsumtion i Sverige, är det viktigt att söka lösningar på hur man kan påverka befolkningen till en mer hållbar livsstil. Den här studien undersöker hur produktdesign skulle kunna användas för att påverka konsumenter till att handla mer inredning second hand. Med hjälp av metoder inom emotionell design där användarens behov sätts i fokus, är målet att ta reda på vad man kan göra för att second hand ska anses mer attraktivt och få högre status. Teorier från cirkulär ekonomi och design för hållbar utveckling utgör basen för arbetsprocessen och bidrar med kunskaper om hur ett mer hållbart samhälle kan nås. Lösningen har till syfte att minska avfall och ge existerande produkter ett längre liv. Förstudien gav insikter kring nuvarande second hand-handel och identifierade behov. En följande behovsanalys och kravspecifikation utgjorde stommen i arbetsprocessen. Iterationer av idégenerering och användarstudier formade och utvecklade konceptet. Det slutgiltiga konceptet blev ett hjälpmedel riktat till icke-vinstdrivna second hand butiker. Hjälpmedlet är en app som är tänkt att användas som en instruktion- och inspirationsportal för hur man enkelt på olika sätt kan rusta upp och göra om inredning som annars skulle ha slängts. Detta då en stor del av inredning som skänks anses vara icke-säljbart och därför istället går direkt till återvinning eller brännbart avfall. Studiens resultat bidrar med idéer för nya koncept inom second hand-handeln. Det visar att personer utan tidigare erfarenhet av design kan använda sig av designmetoder för att arbeta cirkulärt och därmed bidra till ett mer hållbart samhälle. Det visar också möjligheter att använda design för att ändra konsumenters tankesätt och uppfattning om second hand. / With the current climate changes and a continual growth of consumption in Sweden, it is important to seek solutions on how we can influence to a more sustainable way of life. This study is examining how product design could be used in order to affect consumers to shop more home furnishing second hand. By using methods from emotional design, where the users’ needs are in focus, the goal is to find out what one can do to make second hand to be seen as more attractive and gain higher status. Theories from circular economy and design for sustainable development constitutes the base of the process and contributes with knowledge in how a more sustainable society can be reached. The solution’s purpose is to reduce waste and give existing products a prolonged life. The first part of the process gave insights in second hand-trading and identified needs. A following analysis of the users’ needs and concerns, plus specification of demands, became the framework of the following design process. Iterations of brainstorming sessions and user studies shaped and developed the result. The final concept was a tool for non-profit thrift shops. The tool is an app which should be used as an instruction and inspirational working portal on how to, in an easy way, fix home furnishing that otherwise would have been thrown away. This is because a major part of the home decoration that is donated is considered not possible to sell and therefore gets recycled or burnt up. The result is contributing with new ideas of concepts in the second hand-trade. It shows that people with no experience of design can be using methods from design to work in a circular way and threw that contribute to a more sustainable society. It also shows that there are possibilities to use design to change consumers mindset and perception of second hand.

This essay aims to, against the background of how today's second hand-fashion has come to change current concepts and new communication techniques, find out how businesses in the industry perceive their communication towards their recipients. The method used is qualitative and interviews have been conducted from the producer's perspective with a selection of relevant businesses within the industry. Questions that have also been investigated are how businesses view media for the distribution of their communication. The results show, among other things, that businesses active in second hand-fashion need to stay up-to-date in their communication in order to maintain their place in the market and therefore see digital media as necessary although not entirely unproblematic, in terms of the distribution of the communication. What is also common is that the primary communicative strategies are not to emphasize sustainability, due to not shaming or telling consumers in which way they should live or act. Instead, it is important for the businesses to emphasize messages about clothing care and how clothes last longer and thus retain value. The essay has finally shown that the second hand industry in fashion is closely connected with media development, where digital media are primary components to reach out to the audience. / Denna uppsats syftar till att, mot bakgrund av hur dagens second hand-mode kommit att förändras gällande koncept och nya kommunikationstekniker, ta reda hur aktörer inom branschen ser på kommunikationen gentemot sina mottagare. Metoden som använts är kvalitativ och intervjuer har genomförts ur producentens perspektiv med ett axplock relevanta aktörer inom branschen. Frågor som också undersökts är hur aktörerna ser på medier för distribuering av sin kommunikation. Resultaten visar dels på att aktörer verksamma inom second hand-mode behöver hålla sig uppdaterade i sin kommunikation för att behålla sin plats på marknaden och ser därför digitala medier som nödvändiga om än inte helt oproblematiska vad rör distributionen av kommunikationen. Gemensamt är också att de primära kommunikativa strategierna inte är att betona hållbarhet, med anledning av att inte skambelägga eller tala om för konsumenterna på vilket sätt de ska leva eller agera. Viktigt för aktörerna är i stället att kommunicera budskap kring klädvård och hur kläder håller längre och därmed behåller ett värde. Uppsatsen har slutligen visat att second hand-branschen inom mode är nära sammansluten med medieutvecklingen, där digitala medier är primära beståndsdelar för att nå ut till publiken.

曼谷二手衣創業企劃書 / Women enjoy buying clothes, they keep filling new items in their closet, in the mean time, there are items they do not want to wear due to various reasons, which leads to a huge number of garments waste, only a small amount of them create monetary value to the owner. Wouldn’t it be great, if girls can maximize or make more value out of their old clothes by selling them? Re-vivi will help girls turning their unused clothes into another source of their income, on the other hand, help the buyer save more money by offer them cheap second hand clothes. Re-vivi will receive clothes from seller, and distribute items through flea market, social media, instant message application and e-commerce online store. As an agent, the revenue will come from us taking some commission from clothes owner. According to the survey, Bangkokian ladies admitted that they want to sell their clothes, but time and effort are two main issues that stop them. Other reasons include they do not know where to sell and the efforts of selling might not worth the money they receive. At Re-vivi, we want to start a business applying a lean startup approach: first by build the model solving the problem, developing a minimum viable product to begin the process of learning as quickly as possible, we will then measure and re-build the model on those measure metric over and over again. Therefore, during the first six months, we will receive the garments from the seller and distribute them in the flea market and social media, we will see if the model works well before start to build an e-commerce website based on the experience. This paper may not be a huge successful business plan, but there will not be a huge capital loss, as we will use the minimal investment. We may also develop some other plans along the way, because the main goal is to monetize from the clothes waste from those who think that: “it would be great if I can sell those items I do not want anymore”. Keywords: Second hand clothes, Used clothes, Flea market, Shopaholic

Den digitaliserade second hand-handeln är en unik marknad i det att den kombinerar nya miljömedvetna affärsmodeller med teknologiska innovationer, för att skapa en mer hållbar konsumtion. Syftet med denna uppsats är att ta reda på unga konsumenters befintliga attityder gentemot den digitaliserade second hand-handeln. För att avgränsa undersökningen studeras konsumenter tillhörande generationen ”Millennials” och den produkttyp som studeras är kläder. Undersökningen bygger på teorierna bakom Tricomponent Attitude-modellen samt Marknadsföringsmixens 4P vilka sedan operationaliserades i en kvantitativ enkätundersökning. Resultaten visar att ”Millennials” har en övergripande positiv attityd till digitaliserad second hand. Vidare framgår det att trots att övervägande del av respondenterna ännu inte har handlat second hand-kläder på internet uppskattar majoriteten att det är sannolikt att de skulle göra det. Studien bidrar även med ökad insikt och implikationer för företag inom denna bransch vid utformande och anpassning av marknadsföringsstrategier.

Do second-hand clothing donations ‘do good?’ Thrift stores promote the message that second-hand clothing (SHC) donations ‘do good’ when they solicit donations from individuals. I argue that this narrative of ‘doing good’ overemphasizes the social and economic value of donated clothes and conceals the negative aspects of overconsumption and the problems associated with the commercial export of SHC. The aim of this thesis is to better understand the relationship between fast fashion, clothing consumption and disposal patterns, and the global trade in SHC donations by examining what motivates individuals to donate SHC to thrift stores, and how thrift stores are linked to the international trade in SHC. I began to map SHC donations from households to thrift stores. I used a global production network (GPN) framework to examine the social, political, and economic relations that contribute to how value is created, increased, and extracted in this commodity chain. Using a case study approach, I conducted 30 interviews with individuals who donated used clothing and I conducted research at four different thrift stores that sell SHC in Victoria, BC. / Graduate / 2020-04-17

An action research based study focusing on the organization of Red Cross in Vänersborg Sweden and on increasing the sales in the second hand store by the help of retail design and visual merchandising theories. The study is conducted with the help of observations and interviews in Vänersborg and with the Red Cross Sweden. / Program: Master programme in Applied Textile Management

Syftet med denna studie är att genom en narratologisk analys av tre kapitel i Svetlana Aleksijevitjs dokumentärroman Tiden second hand: Slutet för den röda människan undersöka berättartekniken och det historiemedvetande som finns i kapitlen. Med utgångspunkt i detta diskuteras sedan hur romanen kan användas i gymnasieskolan för att stärka elevernas litterära kompetens och lärande i och genom skönlitteratur. Studien visar att berättartekniken, bland annat genom ett interpolerat berättande och anakronier, fyller en tydlig funktion i romanen bland annat sett till hur dessa berättartekniska delar förstärker innehållsliga aspekter i texten. Detta samspel mellan berättarteknik och innehåll gör att romanen torde lämpa sig väl för att i svenskundervisningen lära i skönlitteratur, på så vis att berättarteknikens funktion går att tydliggöra. Vad gäller historiemedvetandet skiljer sig detta åt mellan de olika berättarna, vittnena, i kapitlen. Två vittnen uttrycker hur dåtiden var bättre än vad nutiden är, medan det tredje vittnet upplever en rädsla för hur historien är på väg att upprepa sig. Att romanen presenterar en mångfald av människor och deras historiemedvetanden har i studien diskuterats som fördelaktigt med hänsyn till att det i ett didaktiskt sammanhang går att tydliggöra hur människors förhållande till historien är något subjektivt. Potentiellt kan därför eleverna utifrån romanen utveckla sitt eget historiemedvetande, och på så vis lära genom skönlitteratur. Detta lärande i och genom skönlitteratur som det finns möjlighet att realisera i Tiden second hand torde även möjliggöra en litteraturundervisning som kan skapa en bred litterär kompetens hos eleverna.

Purpose - The purpose of this study is to investigate the underlying causes for the millennials’ engagement into reusing clothes who are characterised by both, a high consumption of second-hand clothing and a certain environmental awareness. Considered as both, a sustainable consumption practice as well as a current trend, it shall be focused in what way these aspects influence the millennials’ consumption of second-hand clothing. Design/Methodological Approach - For answering the research questions, a qualitative approach was followed including 10 semi-structured face-to-face interviews with millennials who shop second-hand clothing in Swedish charity thrift shops. Findings - The findings reveal various motivations of millennials for shopping second-hand clothing and its connection to being a current trend. It is somewhat influencing millennials that shopping second-hand clothing is a sustainable consumption practice. However, it is rather motivated to be part of the trend. In some cases it displays a justification for a higher consumption of clothing. However, environmental concerns do not appear as the primary motive. The findings lead to the assumption that shopping second-hand clothing fulfils the same needs as fashionable clothes do for the millennials. Originality/ Value - Little research has been conducted to understand the millennials’ underlying causes for engaging into second-hand shopping. Recently, they have been discovered as a cohort with a high affinity to reusing clothes. This study examined millennials’ various motivations, taking a closer look on environmental concerns as shopping second-hand clothing is considered as a sustainable consumption practice. Furthermore, it is investigated which role second-hand shopping has in the overall clothing consumption of millennials. Though the findings are not generalizable, they can serve as a basis for future quantitative research within this contemporary and relevant field in the world of textiles and clothing.

Background and Objectives: Environmental tobacco smoke (ETS) is widely recognized as a serious health hazard. No safe level of exposure to ETS has been identified (USDHHS, 2006; WHO, 2007). The importance of smoke-free spaces in improving health outcomes for both smokers and non-smokers is clearly understood and as such, many individuals living in Ontario have made their homes smoke-free. Although those living in units within multi-unit dwellings (MUDs) have the option of making their own unit smoke-free, they may still be involuntarily exposed to ETS drifting from smoking units to their unit. The present study explores tenant’s perceptions of this drifting ETS and the potential market for smoke-free rental housing. Methods: Anonymous surveys were sent to 3724 households within rented MUDs (apartments and row housing) with five or more units in Kitchener, Ontario. In addition to demographic questions, the survey addressed respondents’ experiences with, perceptions of, and reactions to drifting ETS and their views on smoke-free rental housing. Three hundred and five surveys were returned, and 291 met the final inclusion criteria to be included in the analysis. Survey data were weighted by age and education level. Descriptive analyses and logistic regression models were run to answer the research questions. Results: Over half of the respondents who do not smoke in their unit on a daily basis indicated they were exposed to drifting ETS in their home at least ‘sometimes’. Of those who were exposed, 89.5% were bothered and nearly half were bothered ‘a lot’. This suggests drifting ETS is a concern for many tenants living in MUDs. The majority of tenants indicated they did not live in a smoke-free building however there was a strong interest in smoke-free rental housing. Nearly 90% of tenants showed at least some interest in smoke-free rental housing, and many tenants would prefer to live in a building with the strongest possible restrictions on smoking in place. Younger tenants, non-smokers, those who spent less time at home on weekends and those who perceived indoor smoking as a fire risk were more likely to be interested in smoke-free rental housing. Conclusions and Significance: This study provides insight into the magnitude of the problem of drifting ETS in MUDs and can be used to inform policy on smoke-free MUDs. Many respondents indicated they were exposed to drifting ETS and the majority of those who were exposed were bothered by this exposure. There also appears to be a strong market for smoke-free rental housing. The response rate for this study was low at 8.5% and as such the results must be interpreted with caution. Future research should be completed in other jurisdictions and with larger sample sizes. Landlord surveys and air quality monitoring studies are also needed. While additional research is needed, the current study suggests this is an important public health issue, and provides additional evidence supporting the need to explore policy options in the public and private realm for smoke-free housing.

Background and Objectives: Environmental tobacco smoke (ETS) is widely recognized as a serious health hazard. No safe level of exposure to ETS has been identified (USDHHS, 2006; WHO, 2007). The importance of smoke-free spaces in improving health outcomes for both smokers and non-smokers is clearly understood and as such, many individuals living in Ontario have made their homes smoke-free. Although those living in units within multi-unit dwellings (MUDs) have the option of making their own unit smoke-free, they may still be involuntarily exposed to ETS drifting from smoking units to their unit. The present study explores tenant’s perceptions of this drifting ETS and the potential market for smoke-free rental housing. Methods: Anonymous surveys were sent to 3724 households within rented MUDs (apartments and row housing) with five or more units in Kitchener, Ontario. In addition to demographic questions, the survey addressed respondents’ experiences with, perceptions of, and reactions to drifting ETS and their views on smoke-free rental housing. Three hundred and five surveys were returned, and 291 met the final inclusion criteria to be included in the analysis. Survey data were weighted by age and education level. Descriptive analyses and logistic regression models were run to answer the research questions. Results: Over half of the respondents who do not smoke in their unit on a daily basis indicated they were exposed to drifting ETS in their home at least ‘sometimes’. Of those who were exposed, 89.5% were bothered and nearly half were bothered ‘a lot’. This suggests drifting ETS is a concern for many tenants living in MUDs. The majority of tenants indicated they did not live in a smoke-free building however there was a strong interest in smoke-free rental housing. Nearly 90% of tenants showed at least some interest in smoke-free rental housing, and many tenants would prefer to live in a building with the strongest possible restrictions on smoking in place. Younger tenants, non-smokers, those who spent less time at home on weekends and those who perceived indoor smoking as a fire risk were more likely to be interested in smoke-free rental housing. Conclusions and Significance: This study provides insight into the magnitude of the problem of drifting ETS in MUDs and can be used to inform policy on smoke-free MUDs. Many respondents indicated they were exposed to drifting ETS and the majority of those who were exposed were bothered by this exposure. There also appears to be a strong market for smoke-free rental housing. The response rate for this study was low at 8.5% and as such the results must be interpreted with caution. Future research should be completed in other jurisdictions and with larger sample sizes. Landlord surveys and air quality monitoring studies are also needed. While additional research is needed, the current study suggests this is an important public health issue, and provides additional evidence supporting the need to explore policy options in the public and private realm for smoke-free housing.