在國際時尚舞台中，台灣在過去一直扮演代工的角色：儘管手中握有無與倫比的研發與生產技術，然而報酬率卻遠不及握有「國際品牌」的廠商。 1990年起，台灣以往勞力、技術密集的紡織產業開始走下坡。台灣紡織產業開始面臨勞工短缺、工資上漲，許多低價紡織品在國內生產已無獲利空間；從2000年左右開始，隨著全球化市場發展，中國大陸與東南亞等新興國家陸續崛起，我國紡織產業開始產生外移。2005年，WTO協定生效，取消「紡織貿易配額」，以及全球各地逐漸形成的「區域經濟體」，使得全球紡織產業發生結構性的變化。 近來「美學經濟」指標性產業：「時尚產業」，已經成為亞洲國家積極發展的目標，而政府也大力鼓吹由過去專業代工的「製造經濟」，轉型為以品牌、設計為主的「創意、知識經濟」。2008年國家重點發展計畫中提出「產業高值化」政策，除了研發，強化行銷能力以提升品牌知名度亦是創造高附加價值的重要關鍵。 台灣在本土時裝設計師品牌不少。然而，礙於台灣市場規模，始終無法有大幅的成長。因此，台灣設計師如何進軍國際市場，便成了一個值得深入探討的議題。 本研究結合Csikezentmihalyi創造力系統模式、與設計師日常事業經營，探討本土設計師時裝品牌國際化的動態過程：設計師如何以服裝設計專業、結合創業營運相關知識，不斷與國際時尚界專業人士與買家們溝通互動，進而使其品牌在國際間佔有一席之地。 本研究同時歸納設計師在進軍國際市場時需要哪些能力，以及在進入國際市場不同階段所應注意的管理議題，期望能供業界、後續學術研究參考、指教。 / This research is about how Taiwanese fashion designers market their products internationally. Taiwanese textile companies didn’t have their own brands before. They mainly manufactured and sold products overseas under foreign brand names. However, the textile manufacturing industry in Taiwan has already moved abroad to low-labor-cost area during the past two decades. Taiwanese designer brands have been struggleing between the small domestic market and the competition of foreign brands. I explored three cases of Taiwanese fashion designers who market their brands and products internationally. They are respectively Hong, Li Fen’s designer brand ‘Sophie Hong’, Chien, Yu Feng and Pan, Po Shun’s ‘Shawnyï’, and Chia, Wen Lan’s ‘Twinkle by Wenlan’. I analyzed these cases based on the Creativity Dynamic System Model (Csikezentmihalyi, 1990). First, I discovered how they combine their expertises of fashion design and business management to organize their international network. Second, the abilities a fashion designer has to possess during his way to international fashion market have already been clearly listed and categorized. In the end, I casted several managerial issues the fellow designers should pay attention to in different stages when they try to internationalize their brands and products.

This thesis primarily deals with the concept of designing an antenna based device to harvest energy from Radio Frequency (RF) and using the harvested energy to sense the available Long Term Evolution (LTE) network in order for the Internet of Things (IoT) devices to connect to the network for the purpose of transmitting and receiving data. Secondarily the importance of this project is targeting how to conserve battery power in an IoT device and extend it’s lifetime. Research in the field of energy harvesting has been going on for a long time. Most of the researches concentrate on harvesting significant amount of energy to power up an entire device and so no one has ever thought of using the harvested RF energy to sense the availability of LTE network. This method of using antenna to sense network requires only a small amount of harvested energy. Due to this reason the proposed design works for a very low input received signal strength indicator (RSSI) as well, unlike higer RSSI required for other applications. The proposed design has three major sub-parts such as the (i) Antenna for the purpose of receiving the available ambient radio frequency. (ii) Matching circuit for the purpose of maximum power transfer between the antenna and the rectifier circuit. Finally (iii) rectifier which is used to convert the AC voltage into DC voltage. The device then measures the obtained voltage through the Analog to Digital Converter (ADC) pin in the Micro-Controlling Unit (MCU) available with the attached IoT device. The MCU then maps the harvested voltage into the corresponding analog voltage.Depending on the set threshold voltage the MCU can then advice whether or not to connect to the LTE network. The design implements matching circuit for the two LTE bands that are primarily in use in the European region i.e., band 3, 8 that work in 915, 1800 MHz frequency region respectively. In this way we can identify in which band the device is harvesting energy. The matching circuit also acts as a bandpass filter. For the design and production of the entire harvester device one needs adequate knowledge in the field of RF and Antennas and a high level knowledge in the field of electronics in order to run Simulations and to design Printed Circuit Boards (PCBs). Advanced Design Software (ADS) has been used to run all the simulations and Altium software for the design of PCBs. The final prototype is presented along with the casing and tested on the field in practical scenario. Antenna test chambers were used to test the performance of the antennas being used for the design. The prototype harvests RF energy and indicates whether or not to connect to the LTE network with the help of light emitting diode (LED). The uniqueness of the device is that it can detect signals as low as -110 dBm, this has been set as the threshold for the purpose of sensing LTE networks. / Denna avhandling behandlar primärt konceptet att använda antenner för att hämta energi från RF och att använda den insamlade energin för att känna av det tillgängliga LTE-nätverket för att IoT-enheterna ska kunna ansluta till nätverket för syftet med att överföra och ta emot data. Sekundärt Målet med av detta projekt är att spara batteri i en IoT-enhet och förlänga dess livslängd. Forskning inom området energiskörd har pågått under lång tid nu. De flesta av undersökningarna koncentrerar sig på att skörda betydande mängder energi för att driva en hel enhet och så ingen har någonsin tänkt på att använda den avkända RF-energin för att känna av tillgängligheten för LTE-nätverket. Denna metod för att använda antenn för att känna av nätverk kräver endast en liten mängd skördad energi. På grund av denna anledning fungerar den föreslagna designen även för en mycket låg ingång RSSI, till skillnad från högre RSSI som krävs för andra applikationer. Den föreslagna designen har tre huvuddelar, såsom (i) antennen för att ta emot den tillgängliga omgivande radiofrekvensen. (ii) Matchningskrets för maximal effektöverföring mellan antennen och likriktarkretsen. Slutligen (iii) likriktaren som används för att omvandla AC-spänningen till DC-spänning. Enheten mäter sedan den erhållna spänningen genom ADC-stiftet i MCU som finns tillgänglig med den anslutna IoT-enheten. MCU mappar sedan den genererade spänningen till motsvarande analoga spänning. Beroende på den inställda tröskelspänningen kan MCU sedan ge råd om att ansluta till LTE-nätverket eller inte. Konstruktionen implementerar matchningskrets för de två LTE-banden som primärt används i den europeiska regionen vilka är band 3, 7 som arbetar i 915 respektive 1800 MHz frekvensområdet. På så sätt kan vi identifiera i vilket band enheten hämtar energi i. Matchningskretsen fungerar också som ett bandpassfilter. För design och produktion av hela insamlingsenheten behöver man adekvat kunskap inom området RF och antenner och en hög nivå kunskap inom elektronikområdet för att kunna köra simuleringar och designa PCBs.ADS har använts för att köra alla simuleringar och Altium-mjukvara för design av PCBs. Den slutliga prototypen presenteras tillsammans med höljet och testas på fältet i praktiskt scenario. Antenntestkammare användes för att testa prestandan hos antennerna som användes för konstruktionen. Prototypen skördar RF-energi och indikerar om man ska ansluta till LTE-nätverket eller inte med hjälp av blinkande LED.Det unika med enheten är att den kan upptäcka signaler så låga som - 110 dBm, detta har satts som tröskel för avkänning LTE nätverk.

The research is conducted in the area of Software Engineering, with emphasis on the design phase of the Software Development Life Cycle (SDLC). The object-oriented paradigm is the point of departure. The investigation deals with the problem of creating support for the design phase of object-oriented system development. This support must be able to guide the system designer through the design process, according to a sound design method, highlight opportunities for prototyping and point out where to re-iterate a design step, for example. A solution is proposed in the form of a knowledge-based support system. In the prototype this support guides a designer partially through the first step of the System Design task for object-oriented design. The intention is that the knowledge-based system should capture the know-how of an expert system designer and assist an inexperienced system designer to create good designs. / Computing / M. Sc. (Information Systems)

<p>Позоришни редитељ Боривоје Ханауска незаобилазан је у проучавању делатности Српског народног позоришта у периоду после Другог светског рата. Ханауска је од 1945. до 1967. (са прекидом од 1948. до 1952) у Српском народном позоришту режирао тридесет представа. Овај рад приказуке редитељски рад<br />Боривоја Ханауске у СНП, једног од најзначајнијих редитеља СНП-а, и на најбољи<br />начин показује његовог значај и допринос развоју режије у српском послератном<br />позоришту. Методи истраживања били су историјски, театролошки, реконструкција и<br />анализа свих тридесет представа које је Ханауска режирао у СНП, као и синтеза<br />добијених резултата. Овај рад на основу доступне грађе обухвата сваки сегмент<br />његовог рада на представи. У раду му је био важан сваки детаљ представе, залагао да домаћи драмски текст буде што више присутан на сцени, да се са сцене чује домаћи текст, а посебно је водио рачуна о визуелном аспекту. Један је од зачетника новог приступа драмској режији. Из сваке његове представе, у мањој или већој мери, излазила је поетичност, коју је носио дубоко у себи. Рад је илустрован палкатима и фотографијама из представа, а доноси и попис свих представа које је режирао са пописом свих актера, бројем извођења у СНП и на гостовању, као и бројем гледалаца.</p> / <p>Pozorišni reditelj Borivoje Hanauska nezaobilazan je u proučavanju delatnosti Srpskog narodnog pozorišta u periodu posle Drugog svetskog rata. Hanauska je od 1945. do 1967. (sa prekidom od 1948. do 1952) u Srpskom narodnom pozorištu režirao trideset predstava. Ovaj rad prikazuke rediteljski rad<br />Borivoja Hanauske u SNP, jednog od najznačajnijih reditelja SNP-a, i na najbolji<br />način pokazuje njegovog značaj i doprinos razvoju režije u srpskom posleratnom<br />pozorištu. Metodi istraživanja bili su istorijski, teatrološki, rekonstrukcija i<br />analiza svih trideset predstava koje je Hanauska režirao u SNP, kao i sinteza<br />dobijenih rezultata. Ovaj rad na osnovu dostupne građe obuhvata svaki segment<br />njegovog rada na predstavi. U radu mu je bio važan svaki detalj predstave, zalagao da domaći dramski tekst bude što više prisutan na sceni, da se sa scene čuje domaći tekst, a posebno je vodio računa o vizuelnom aspektu. Jedan je od začetnika novog pristupa dramskoj režiji. Iz svake njegove predstave, u manjoj ili većoj meri, izlazila je poetičnost, koju je nosio duboko u sebi. Rad je ilustrovan palkatima i fotografijama iz predstava, a donosi i popis svih predstava koje je režirao sa popisom svih aktera, brojem izvođenja u SNP i na gostovanju, kao i brojem gledalaca.</p> / <p>The theatre director Borivoje Hanausca is an unavoidable figure in the study of the Serbian National Theatre (SNP) activities in the period after the Second World War. Hanausca directed thirty plays in the Serbian National Theatre from 1945-1967(with a break from 1948-1952). This study describes the work of the theatre director Borivoje Hanausca in the Serbian National Theatre being one of the most significant directors in it and in the best way presents his contribution to the development of directing in the Serbian post-war theatre. The research methods in this work are historical and<br />theatrical; reconstruction and analysis of all the thirty plays Hanausca directed in the Serbian National Theatre as well as the synthesis of the results that were obtained. This study includes each part of his work in his plays, on the basis of the material which was available. He considered every single detail of his plays important; he supported Serbian plays to be both present and heard from the stage as much as possible and he particularly took care of visual aspects. He is one of the<br />creators of the new approach to theatre play directing. Poetics he had deep within himself came out and was present, more or less, in his plays. This work is illustrated with posters and photographs from his plays and there is a list of all plays he directed and the names of all the people involved in the performances, the number of performances in the Serbian National Theatre and performed on tour, as well as the number of audiences.</p>

This project examines opportunities for history exhibition design practices. Research into museum studies and creative work in typography, photography, graphic design and architecture result in curation and design of a prototypical exhibit about the granite quarrying industry of Stonington, Maine.

This paper will explore the possibilities of using an automated self-made procedural tool to create real-time environments based on simple image masks. The purpose of this is to enable a concept artist or level designer to quickly get out results in a game engine and to be able to explore ideas. The goal of this thesis was to better understand how you can break down simple ideas and shapes into more complex details and assets. In the first part of this thesis, I go over the traditional workflow of creating a real-time environment. I then go on and break down my tool, what it does and how it works. I start off with a Photoshop file, make tools in Houdini and then utilize those in Unreal for the end result. I also argument about the time-saving possibilities with these tools. From the work, I draw the conclusion that these kinds of tools save a lot of time for repeating tasks and the creation of similar environments.

Bakalauro darbo pirmame skyriuje išanalizuoti neigiami žmonių jausmai, išnagrinėti įvairių autorių (medikų, sociologų, mokslininkų) publikuojami straipsniai pykčio ir agresijos tema. Išanalizuotos neigiamų emocijų kilimo priežastys, jų išreiškimas ir valdymas. Antrajame skyriuje pateikta įvairių dizainerių kūrybos pavyzdžių, interpretuojančių neigiamas emocijas. Išanalizuoti seserų Mulleavy (Rodarte) sukurti darbai, kuriuose atsispindi pyktis ir agresija. Menininkės sukurtuose modeliuose tiesiogiai agresijos ir pykčio neinterpretuoja, jos pasitelkia šiuos jausmus tik kaip pagalbinę priemonę, suteikiant kolekcijai savitumo. Kaip analogas kuriamai kolekcijai pasirinkta seserų Mulleavy kolekcija „NYC mados savaitė - 2010 vasara. Rodarte“. Eskizuota, siekiant, kad modeliai būtų išraiškingi, atspindėtų pykčio emocijas, tačiau patys savaime nebūtų agresyvūs. Trečiame skyriuje aiškinama kolekcijos idėja, pateikiami modelių eskizų ieškojimai, technologiniai mėginiai, dekoro detalės. Atsižvelgiant į modelius, parinkti audiniai, audinių struktūra ir atspalviai. Norint geriau perteikti kolekcijos idėją, drabužių demonstravimui numatytos skirtingo ūgio manekenės. Pristatomą kolekciją sudaro 14 suprojektuotų modelių, iš jų – pasiūti keturi. Modeliams parinkti tamsių atspalvių, blizgūs audiniai. Kampuotos formas ir aštrūs kampai, suteikia modeliams piktų žodžių ir grėsmingų žvilgsnių nuotaiką. Spiralės ir atsišakojimai - tarsi įsiliepsnojęs kivirčas ir besistengiančios lauk išsiveržti... [toliau žr. visą tekstą] / First section of bachelor's work analysis negative people emotions, explores various articles and books from all kind of specialists in subject of anger and aggression ( doctors, scientists, socialists ). It also searches for sources of anger and for ways to deal with them. The second section provides examples of the works taken from designers, whom art are filled with anger and emotions. Works of sisters Mulleavy (Rodarte) were analyzed. Artists never intended to show anger and aggression directly, they only used those feelings as an alternative tool in order to create original collection. As an analog for collection, which is under creation, sisters Mulleavy collection “NYC fashion week - 2010 summer. Rodarte“ was chosen. The sketches was created in order for models to be expressive , to reflect the emotions of anger, but still not to be aggressive within. The third section explains the idea of collection, the search for models, sketches, technological samples and elements of decor. Fabrics, theirs structure and tone was chosen according to sketches. In order to better convey the idea of collection, different height models was chosen. 14 models was designed for collection , however only 4 sew .Dark colors, shiny fabrics was chosen for models. Square shapes and sharp corners, gives models angry words and aggressive gazes mood. Spirals and ramifications is like everyday quarrels and negative emotions trying to escape from them. In order to show that several types of... [to full text]

Objective: This research aimed at reviewing the information provided by the online drug misuse communities with reference to the available evidence-based literature on the novel psychoactive substances. Methodology: Among hundreds of novel psychoactive substances, four groups (phenethylamines, tryptamines, piperazines and miscellaneous) were selected for the study. Various website drug fora were identified by Google and Yahoo search engines using a set of specific key words. The methods consisted of extracting and analysing qualitative data from the identified website fora. This was also supplemented by critical reviewing the existing evidence-based literature search for each of the selected psychoactive compounds. Results: The combined search results identified 84 unique website fora from which qualitative data were extracted for thirty novel psychoactive substances and organised into technical folders. This data extracted from online communities has thrown some light on factors such as the mode of purchase, subjective experiences, reasons for use, combinations, legislation, mechanisms of action in the CNS, side effects, toxicity and its management. This would enable the clinicians to be obtain full history when assessing and would inform better treatment choices. Conclusions: A range of novel psychoactive substances have been made recently available across the globe. The sale is easily achieved through the Internet. New legislations are made to control some recreational substances whilst newer substances appear. Furthermore, the distributors sell the backlog of products even after controlling of the substance has occured and hence are liable to potentiating criminal investigations. It is here suggested as well that the 'genuinity' of each onlince susbtance is questionable. Evidence-based literature is scant for the vast majority of these substances. Accidental overdoses are common occurences and some of the potential life-threatening clinical situations include sympathomimetic toxidrome and serotonin syndrome. Benzodiazepines appear to help with agitation and neuropsychiatric manifestations. Better levels of international cooperation and rapid share of available information may be needed to tackle the emerging problem of the novel psychoactive substances.

The research is conducted in the area of Software Engineering, with emphasis on the design phase of the Software Development Life Cycle (SDLC). The object-oriented paradigm is the point of departure. The investigation deals with the problem of creating support for the design phase of object-oriented system development. This support must be able to guide the system designer through the design process, according to a sound design method, highlight opportunities for prototyping and point out where to re-iterate a design step, for example. A solution is proposed in the form of a knowledge-based support system. In the prototype this support guides a designer partially through the first step of the System Design task for object-oriented design. The intention is that the knowledge-based system should capture the know-how of an expert system designer and assist an inexperienced system designer to create good designs. / Computing / M. Sc. (Information Systems)

Att köpa ekologiskt är ingen ny företeelse, men i takt med att både e-handel och efterfrågan på ekologiska varor konstant ökar så behövs det stöd för designers för att kunna möta dessa utmaningar. För att kunna designa e-handelswebbsidor med ekologiska valmöjligheter krävs förståelse för användaren och dess behov. Genomatt kartlägga målinriktade beteenden går det att påvisa när en användare är mottaglig för ett ekologiskt val på en e-handelswebbsida. En mental modell byggs utifrån användares målinriktade beteende och denna kan användas som stöd av designers för att förstå när en användare är mer mottaglig för ekologiska val på en e-handelswebbsida. Denna studie resulterar i en identifiering och kartläggning över när en användare är mer öppen för ekologiska val. / Buying ecologically not a new phenomenon, but as to both e-commerce and the demand for organic products is constantly increasing, so support is required for designers to meet these challenges. In order to design e-commerce websites with ecological options requires an understanding of the user and their needs. By mapping the targeted behaviors you can detect when a user is susceptible to an ecological choice for an e-commerce website. A mental model is built based onuser's targeted behavior, and this can be used to support the designers to understand when a user is more susceptible to ecological choices on an e-commercewebsite. This study results in the identification and mapping of when a user is more open to ecological choices.