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This thesis researches the role clothes and fashion played in the performance and representation of gender in a Swedish fashion magazine between 1830 and 1835. It also examines the performance of the magazine itself in reproducing idealised appearances, behaviours, and the concept of fashion towards a middle-class readership. A distinction is made between dress and fashion, where dress is understood as the tangible act of clothing, the body and fashion are a collective and conscious belief that grants clothes with an intangible extra added value. The analysis is divided into two chapters. The first focuses on the magazine’s communication on the usage and functions of clothes, as well as how, where, and when they were meant to be worn. This chapter also includes an analysis of the concept of fashion and the magazine’s understanding of it. The second chapter focuses on the performance, gender, and the body, what type of performances can be detected, and their relation to clothes and fashion. The magazine comments on its role and responsibility as a vessel of information on fashion and reinforces the existence of the fashion concept. Fashion was seen as an unavoidable force of nature at the same time as delicate since the act of dress could disrupt the idea of fashion by being worn by too many, thus considered too common. The idea of an external appearance matching internal essence was stressed for both women and men. Clothes visualised a “true” inner self of a person and should ideally overlap, signifying sincerity instead of deception. Dressing for occupational and occasional circumstances was applicable for both women and men. Marriage attire, however, was only directed at women, although men were represented in 47 % of the fashion plates, and information was being relayed concerning men’s fashion, making this absence noticeable.

The need for an examination of the rise of various journalistic and print forms in The Gentleman's Magazine is evident from the absence of scholarship in this area. One of the most important forms born in The Gentleman's Magazine is the obituary. Beginning as a sparse list of deaths appended to the back of each issue of the magazine, it came to occupy a larger role in the publication within a hundred years of its inception. My study proposes to examine the reasons for this shift, focusing on the rise of the biographical form as it is treated in the works of Samuel Johnson, a prominent contributor to The Gentleman's Magazine, and practiced at the hands of John Nichols, one of the magazine's most prominent editors. My study also seeks to characterize the content of the obituaries by historicizing them in the context of the period and within the confines of the editorial policies of the magazine itself. The magazine's editorial persona, Sylvanus Urbanus, provides general terms whereby the dead may be characterized. Ultimately, my study is interested in examining the representations of the deceased in the obituary form as social markers, that are necessary for understanding how groups and individuals represented society. / Master of Arts

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Cette étude porte sur la revue Kôga, une publication photographique mensuelle japonaise lancée en 1932, et sur ses photographes fondateurs Nojima Yasuzô, Nakayama Iwata et Kimura Ihee, rejoints par le critique Ina Nobuo à partir du deuxième numéro. Fondée afin de rivaliser avec les revues étrangères, telles que Photographie en France, Das Deutsche Lichtbild en Allemagne et Studio Annual of Camera Art en Angleterre, elle est aujourd’hui un atout majeur pour comprendre la photographie japonaise moderne du début des années trente. Et ce, malgré sa courte existence. Le premier chapitre questionne la notion de « modernité » dans le cadre du Japon. Le deuxième chapitre analyse le numéro d’inauguration de la revue en soulignant ses caractéristiques propres, au regard du contexte moderne japonais. Enfin, le troisième chapitre traite individuellement les travaux de Nojima Yasuzô, Nakayama Iwata, Kimura Ihee et Ina Nobuo. Ceux-ci permettent de faire valoir les différentes orientations respectives présentées dans la revue Kôga, qui sont représentatives de la scène photographique japonaise à un moment charnière. Ils permettent également de mettre en évidence la notion de passage : entre la Photographie d’Art (geijutsu shashin) et la Nouvelle Photographie (shinkô shashin) ; Entre la Nouvelle Photographie (shinkô shashin) et la photographie de reportage (hôdô shashin) et la Photographie d’Avant-garde (zen’ei shashin) ; Entre les différentes disciplines culturelles et artistiques ; Entre le domaine artistique et le domaine professionnel ; Entre l’œuvre d’art unique et la reproductibilité ; Ou encore, entre l’art et la société. / This work examines the Kôga review, a monthly Japanese photography magazine that was created in 1932 by photographers Nojima Yasuzô, Nakayama Iwata, and Kimura Ihee, with critic Ina Nobuo joining the review from the second issue. Founded to emulate Western magazines such as the French Photographie, the German Das Deutsche Lichtbild and the British Studio Annual of Camera Art, today Kôga, despite its short existence, is a major asset in understanding modern Japanese photography of the early 1930’s.The first chapter defines “modernity” within the framework of Japanese culture and history. The second chapter analyzes the opening issue of Kôga and emphasizes the specific characteristics that embody modern Japan’s photography reviews. Finally, the third chapter discusses the works of Nojima Yasuzô, Nakayama Iwata, Kimura Ihee and Ina Nobuo. This chapter also details the various orientations of photography that appear in the Kôga review and explains how they represent Japan’s photographic scene at a transitional period. Developed throughout the chapter is the concept of transition between: Art Photography (geijutsu shashin) and New Photography (shinkô shashin); New Photography (shinkô shashin) and reportage photography (hôdô shashin) and Avant-garde Photography (zen’ei shashin); art and society; artistic and professional fields; the unique master piece and reproducibility; and in between the various cultural and artistic disciplines.

Este trabalho propõe uma visão sobre as fotografias publicadas por G Magazine, revista brasileira voltada para o público gay. A perspectiva é identificar o discurso estruturado na linguagem de corpos-signos do nu masculino. A partir de conceitos sobre a comunicação na contemporaneidade, noções de sexualidade apresentadas por Foucault, Freud e Lacan, e de imagem e fotografia para Dubois, Barthes e Peirce, estabeleceremos o paralelo entre os registros lacanianos e as categorias peirceanas. A disposição anatômica dos corpos-signos constrói um discurso conservador sobre a posição do masculino no sistema, concedendo a este o lugar do exercício e manifestação de poder. / This paper proposes a view on the photography published by G Magazine, a Brazilian magazine focused on the gay public. The perspective is to identify the discourse built on the language of naked male body-signs. Based on concepts about the contemporary communication, notions on sexuality stated by Foucault, Freud and Lacan, and on image and photography by Dubois, Barthes and Peirce, we establish a parallel between Lacans registers and Peirces categories. The anatomic disposition of the body-signs constructs a conservative discourse on systems male position, providing the main role of practice and manifestation of power.

Kamratposten is a swedish magazine aimed at youth aged 8-14. They write about almost everything that concerns youth, all the way from dealing with loneliness to animals and celebrities. This study concentrates at how they write about love. With a qualitiative narrative analysis of the 12 articles that concerns love from the 2013 issues of Kamratposten, I have tried to answer the questions: - What narratives about love are being constructed in Kamratposten 2013? - How do they construct males, females and gender in their articles about love? What I found was that the hetero normativity, or the heterosexual matrix as Judith Butler calls it, was very strong in the articles. Only 1 out of 12 articles concerned homosexual love and none mentioned other sexual orientations. There is also a strong division with girls and boys, whom are often separated through their relationships as lovers or friends. A girl friend is not the same as a boy friend. This is a narrative about what Yvonne Hirdman (2001) calls the first rule of manliness: A man is not a woman. (s. 48) Besides from that, the gender roles constructed in Kamratposten is not very traditional nor stereotypical, with boys being sensitive and lost and girls being active and experts. On one hand, Kamratposten’s stories about love constructs a traditional picture about love and boys and girls, with heterosexual relationships as the norm, and on the other hand they are telling a story about norm breaking gender roles.

Orientador: Zélia Lopes da Silva / Banca: Maria Teresa Santos Cunha / Banca: Adenil Alfeu Domingos / Banca: Elizete Mello da Silva / Banca: Maria de Fátima Salum Moreira / Resumo: O tema central do trabalho foi a verificação de como se deu a construção e as representações de uma nova mulher no Brasil, nas décadas de 1960 e 1970, por meio das revistas Claudia e Querida. Desenvolvida a partir de uma perspectiva histórico-cultural, essa temática centrou-se na análise de fenômenos/temas/fatos em torno dos feminismos, suas representações e apropriações, expressos no debate sobre a sexualidade feminina e a luta por igualdade política mais atenta aos direitos civis em relação aos homens. Tais temas foram apropriados, capitalizados e devolvidos às leitoras como discursos ideológicos materializados na prestação de serviços pelas revistas Claudia e Querida que viam, nas ditas redefinições, ora um fenômeno de mudança cultural de caráter revolucionário, ora acomodações de práticas sociais modernas, que se afirmavam em meio às disputas com os segmentos que defendiam as ideologias tradicionais, voltadas às ações das mulheres nos espaços públicos e privados. Das principais fontes utilizadas, foram selecionadas matérias informativas sobre assuntos diversos, considerados de interesse das leitoras, como a atuação política, os direitos das mulheres, o casamento, o desquite e o divórcio e o controle da natalidade, além das seções de cartas e colunas de "consultório sentimental", que circularam em vários exemplares de Claudia e Querida, entre os anos de 1960 e 1979. / Abstract: The central theme of this work was the verification of how the representations of a new type of woman was built in Brazil, during the 1960's and 70's, through the examination of two periodicals, the magazines Claudia and Querida. Based on a cultural-historical point of view, this theme was centered upon the analysis of facts, themes and phenomenon concerning feminism, its representations and appropriations expressed in the debate about female sexuality and the struggle for political equality, particularly on the civil rights in respect of men. Such topics were appropriated, capitalized and returned to the women, readers of those magazines, as ideological discourses manifested in the format of services carried out by Claudia and Querida, which considered the redefinitions of the new woman, either a phenomenon of cultural change marked by revolutionary features, or adjustments of modern social practices being affirmed among the disputes with segments of traditional ideologies defenders, concerning women's actions in public and private spaces. Informative issues on several subjects were chosen from the main sources, taking into account the interest of female readers such as political actions, women's rights, marriage, divorce, birth control besides the letters and sentimental advisory sections, which were easily found in various copies of Claudia and Querida in the 1960's and 70's. / Doutor

Este trabalho propõe uma visão sobre as fotografias publicadas por G Magazine, revista brasileira voltada para o público gay. A perspectiva é identificar o discurso estruturado na linguagem de corpos-signos do nu masculino. A partir de conceitos sobre a comunicação na contemporaneidade, noções de sexualidade apresentadas por Foucault, Freud e Lacan, e de imagem e fotografia para Dubois, Barthes e Peirce, estabeleceremos o paralelo entre os registros lacanianos e as categorias peirceanas. A disposição anatômica dos corpos-signos constrói um discurso conservador sobre a posição do masculino no sistema, concedendo a este o lugar do exercício e manifestação de poder. / This paper proposes a view on the photography published by G Magazine, a Brazilian magazine focused on the gay public. The perspective is to identify the discourse built on the language of naked male body-signs. Based on concepts about the contemporary communication, notions on sexuality stated by Foucault, Freud and Lacan, and on image and photography by Dubois, Barthes and Peirce, we establish a parallel between Lacans registers and Peirces categories. The anatomic disposition of the body-signs constructs a conservative discourse on systems male position, providing the main role of practice and manifestation of power.

Orientador: Maria Filomena Gregori / Dissertação (mestrado) - Universidade Estadual de Campinas, Instituto de Filosofia e Ciências Humanas / Made available in DSpace on 2018-08-21T10:11:20Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 Feijao_GiovanaLopes_M.pdf: 16786391 bytes, checksum: 93781da69207d8b2f29603818fd22ea2 (MD5) Previous issue date: 2012 / Resumo: Essa dissertação tem início em outubro de 2004, quando trabalhei como assistente de pesquisa de Maria Filomena Gregori no Projeto Temático Gênero, Corporalidades do Centro de Estudos de Gênero (Pagu). O que essa pesquisa mostrou foi que, no Brasil, observa-se a difusão de um "erotismo politicamente correto" (GREGORI, 2010) pelo universo de produção, comercialização e consumo de bens eróticos, o mercado erótico. Erotismo que tem como características: O sexo/erotismo deslocado do seu sentido de transgressão e cada vez mais associado à fonte de prazer, saúde mental e corporal , em que uma vida sexual ativa se torna possível a todos os corpos e indivíduos, através do exercício e da domesticação desse corpo para o ato. Durante a pesquisa empírica realizada entre lojas e trabalhadores desse mercado erótico [pesquisa realizada de outubro de 2004 a dezembro de 2007], entrei em contato com um grande número de jornalistas e repórteres de revistas, que procuravam lojas de produtos eróticos para realizarem reportagens e matérias sobre sexo. Revistas como Nova, Marie Claire, Claúdia, Gloss. Essa circulação fez surgir a hipótese de que, talvez, extrapolando o mercado erótico, o erotismo politicamente correto também estaria sendo disseminado pelas revistas. Essas revistas poderiam ser vistas como manuais pedagógicos desse tipo de erotismo? Quais as especificidades ele receberia em suas páginas? O objetivo dessa dissertação é observar como e se ocorre a disseminação do erotismo politicamente correto nas páginas de duas revistas de circulação nacional Nova e Men's Health / Abstract: This dissertation begins in October 2004, when I worked as a research assistant on Thematic Project: Gender, corporeality of the Center for Gender Studies (Pagu.) What this research showed was that, in Brazil, there the diffusion of a "politically correct eroticism" (GREGORI, 201 O) in the universe of erotic market . Eroticism whose characteristics are: sex I eroticism displaced from their sense of transgression and increasingly more associated with the source of pleasure, mental health and body health. During the empirical research conducted between stores and employees of this erotic market [survey conducted from October 2004 to December 2007], I contacted a large number of journalists and reporters, making in this places articles about sex for magazines. This gave rise to the hypothesis that perhaps extrapolating the erotic market, the "politically correct eroticism" also is being disseminated by magazines. These magazines could be viewed as manuais of this kind of eroticism? The objective of this dissertation is to observe how and if occurs the spread of "eroticism politically correct" on the pages of two magazines Nova and Men's Health / Mestrado / Antropologia Social / Mestra em Antropologia Social