Submitted by Filipe dos Santos (fsantos@pucsp.br) on 2018-09-05T12:10:14Z No. of bitstreams: 1 Nathália Cristina Brunini.pdf: 2472684 bytes, checksum: e6e9b52adf05886e07d6ad834f99c3ea (MD5) / Made available in DSpace on 2018-09-05T12:10:14Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 Nathália Cristina Brunini.pdf: 2472684 bytes, checksum: e6e9b52adf05886e07d6ad834f99c3ea (MD5) Previous issue date: 2018-08-13 / Coordenação de Aperfeiçoamento de Pessoal de Nível Superior - CAPES / The theme of this research is the fashion market model known as fast fashion, characterized by its rapid production and marketing speed. The study seeks to understand this model as an ambivalent system, in other words, on the one hand, the "democratization" of fashion. On the other hand, a predatory and exploitative circuit, since it increases the access of the general public to the latest trends due to the affordable price, but at the same time expands the political, economic and social cracks, explained by the precarious conditions of work in which it is manufactured part of the fast fashion products. The central hypothesis is that the partnerships made between renowned designers and sizeable fast fashion retailers are a symptom of the new modes of communication, in an era marked by the generalization of aesthetic strategies, with a commercial purpose, under the discourse of accessibility to the general public. As a corpus of the research, we opted for the case study of the Riachuelo retail chain, especially the partnerships signed between the Brazilian company and four renowned designers: Oskar Metsavaht (2010), Osklen, Donatella Versace (2014), Versace, Karl Lagerfeld (2016), Chanel and Fendi, and one of the most recent, Paula Raia (2017), self-styled slow fashion. As methodological strategies, we follow the proposal to broadly contextualize the incidence of fast fashion in the major European fashion centres and at Brazil; to analyse the growth and repositioning of Riachuelo, which, from a small fabric store in Pernambuco (the 1940s), became a Brazilian fashion retail giant; and to discuss, conceptually, the fragility of this democratization within the framework of fast fashion, based on the explication of Riachuelo's communicational strategies, present in materials for the partnerships as mentioned above / O tema desta pesquisa é o modelo mercadológico de moda conhecido como fast fashion, caracterizado pela sua rápida velocidade de produção e comercialização. O estudo busca entender este modelo como um sistema ambivalente, ou seja, por um lado “democratizador” de moda, mas, por outro, um circuito predador e exploratório, uma vez que aumenta o acesso do grande público às últimas tendências, devido ao preço acessível, mas, ao mesmo tempo, amplia as fissuras políticas, econômicas e sociais, explicitadas pelas condições precárias de trabalho em que é fabricada grande parte dos produtos de moda rápida. A principal hipótese é que as parcerias feitas entre renomados estilistas e grandes redes de lojas populares adeptas ao fast fashion são um sintoma dos novos modos de comunicação, em uma era marcada pela generalização das estratégias estéticas, com finalidade mercantil, sob o discurso de acessibilidade ao grande público. Como corpus da pesquisa, optamos pelo estudo de caso da rede de varejo Riachuelo, especialmente as parcerias firmadas entre a empresa brasileira e quatro estilistas renomados: Oskar Metsavaht (2010), da marca carioca Osklen, Donatella Versace (2014), da Versace, Karl Lagerfeld (2016), da Chanel e da Fendi, e, uma das mais recentes, Paula Raia (2017), autointitulada slow fashion. Como estratégias metodológicas, propõe-se contextualizar, de forma ampla, a incidência do fast fashion nos grandes centros europeus de moda e no Brasil; analisar o crescimento e reposicionamento da Riachuelo que, de pequena loja de tecidos pernambucana (década de 1940), tornou-se a gigante do varejo de moda brasileira; e discutir, conceitualmente, a fragilidade dessa democratização dentro dos moldes do fast fashion, a partir da explicitação de estratégias comunicacionais da Riachuelo, presentes em materiais de divulgação das parcerias citadas

Essa tese consiste num esforço acadêmico multidisciplinar em compreender alguns aspectos relacionados à veiculação de abordagens sociais em telenovela brasileira específica: lembranças, recepção e percepção. Por meio de investigação empírica objetivou-se a levantar, em primeira instância, as lembranças das Temáticas, Temas e Merchandising Social de telespectadores da telenovela \"Páginas da Vida\", escrita por Manoel Carlos, para a Rede Globo de Televisão. Em um segundo momento procurou-se verificar e analisar as principais mediações, em especial os níveis educacionais formais, atuantes na recepção de fragmentos das abordagens sociais veiculados na telenovela já mencionada. E, finalmente, buscou-se avaliar a percepção dos mesmos conteúdos, levando em consideração, em especial, a mediação da educação formal. Para alcançar tais propósitos, foram pesquisados grupos de telespectadores da telenovela, portadores de cada um dos níveis educacionais formais adotados nesse estudo. / This thesis consists in a multidisciplinary academic effort to understanding a few aspects related to the dissemination of social issues in specific Brazilian soap opera: remembering, reception and perception. Through an empirical inquiry intended to raise, first and foremost, the viewer\'s remembrances of the Thematic, Theme and Social Merchandising propagated by the soap opera \"Páginas da Vida\", written by Manoel Carlos, for the Rede Globo of Television. In a second moment also the main mediation have to be verify and analyzed, especially the formal educational levels active in the reception of fragments of the social issues promulgated in the soap opera mentioned above. And finally the perception of the some contents was evaluated, which took especially in consideration, the mediation provided by the formal education. In order to do it, groups of the soap opera viewers were interviewed, with each one of the adopted formal educational levels in this research.

by Tse Po-shing, Andy. / Thesis (M.B.A.)--Chinese University of Hong Kong, 1991. / Bibliography: leaves 57-59. / EXECUTIVE SUMMARY --- p.i / ACKNOWLEDGEMENT --- p.ii / TABLE OF CONTENTS --- p.iii / LIST OF APPENDICES --- p.iv / CHAPTER / Chapter I. --- INTRODUCTION --- p.2 / Chapter II. --- RESEARCH RATIONALE --- p.3 / Statement of the Program --- p.3 / Programme Strategy --- p.3 / Assumptions and Hypothesis --- p.3 / Target Population --- p.5 / Chapter III. --- LITERATURE REVIEW --- p.6 / Segmentation --- p.6 / Lifestyle --- p.9 / Lifestyle Segmentation --- p.11 / Fashion Research --- p.13 / Chapter IV. --- BACKGROUND INFORMATION ON HONG KONG --- p.16 / Demographics of Hong Kong Females --- p.16 / Hong Kong's Market for Apparel --- p.18 / Lifestyle Study in Hong Kong --- p.20 / Chapter V. --- RESEARCH METHODOLOGY --- p.21 / Sampling Procedure --- p.21 / Instrument --- p.22 / Measures --- p.23 / Chapter VI. --- RESULTS --- p.27 / Factor Analysis --- p.27 / Cluster Analysis --- p.32 / Demographics --- p.33 / Chapter VII. --- DISCUSSION --- p.34 / Cluster I: Followers --- p.34 / Cluster II: Leaders --- p.35 / Cluster III: Realists --- p.36 / Cluster IV: Uninvolved --- p.37 / Chapter VIII. --- CONCLUSIONS AND RECOMMENDATIONS --- p.39 / Conclusion --- p.39 / Recommendation --- p.39 / Chapter IX. --- LIMITATION --- p.41 / Chapter X. --- APPENDICES --- p.42 / Chapter XI. --- REFERENCES --- p.57 / LIST OF APPENDICES / Chapter APPENDIX 1: --- English Version Questionnaire --- p.44 / Chapter APPENDIX 2: --- Chinese Version Questionnaire --- p.49 / Chapter APPENDIX 3: --- Figure and Table --- p.52 / Figure 1 --- p.52 / Table 1 --- p.53 / Table 2 --- p.55 / Table 3 --- p.56

La diversification de l’offre des produits de terroir oblige les distributeurs à s’interroger sur leur implantation en magasin. Cette thèse propose de réfléchir sur la décision de l’implantation des produits de terroir dans le contexte français en adoptant une approche inter-catégorielle, au niveau général du magasin. Cette recherche étudie le rôle des stratégies d’implantation dans l’accroissement de l’accessibilité et de la facilité d’achat des produits de terroir en magasin, d’une part, et dans l’augmentation de la performance financière, d’autre part. Pour ce faire, une étude qualitative exploratoire ainsi qu’une expérimentation dans un magasin ont été menées sur les catégories de produits de terroir. / The diversification of the offer of terroir products forces distributors to question their allocation in the store. The thesis proposes to reflect on the allocation of terroir products in the French context by adopting an inter-categorial approach, at the general level of the store. This research examines the role of shelf space allocation strategies in increasing the accessibility and ease of purchase of terroir products in-store, on the one hand, and in increasing financial performance, on the other hand. Therefore, both an exploratory qualitative study and an experiment in a store have been conducted for the categories of terroir products.

Denna uppsats handlar om visual merchandising online med fokus på företag som säljer sportkläder. Studien har genomförts ur ett konsumentperspektiv. Vår undersökning syftar till att studera produktsidor för sportkläder för att se hur konsumenter uppfattar den produktinformation, både visuell och verbal, som produktsidorna innehåller. Därigenom ska en kartläggning kunna göras av vilka element som är av vikt för respondenterna samt hur dessa bör utformas. Visual merchandising kan förklaras som den strategiska presentationen av ett företag och deras produkt, eller produkter, vars funktion är att attrahera kunder och underlätta inköpsprocessen. Således är visual merchandising online den visuella försäljningen i en onlinemiljö. Det finns utmaningar vid onlineshopping som tycks vara detta: att kommunicera sina produkter på ett rättvisande sätt som både lockar och ger rätt förväntningar. Man måste väga upp för det som går förlorat när köpet inte längre sker i en fysisk butiksmiljö, där en produkt upplevs både visuellt och taktilt. Forskning visar att en tydlig strategi för visual merchandising ge konkurrensfördelar och vara avgörande för att locka kunder. Som en förstudie analyserades sex olika produktsidor. Undersökningen genomfördes sedan genom semi-strukturerade intervjuer med tio respondenter. Under intervjuerna fick respondenterna besöka produktsidorna för att sedan kunna dela med sig av sina åsikter och iakttagelser. Intervjufrågor formulerades utifrån undersökningsmodellen som formulerats samt det teoretiska ramverket. Undersökningsmodellen skapades utifrån S-O-R-modellen för att kunna kartlägga respondenternas beteenden samt tydliggöra vilka faktorer som ligger till grund för deras respons. Resultaten av studien är en guide för utformningen av en produktsidas element; produktsidans helhet, produktbilder samt produktinformation. Sammanställningen av denna studie visar att en ren och avskalad produktsida föredras. Fokus ska ligga på den valda produkten för att inte sidan ska upplevas som rörig. Viktiga direkta signaler är pris, bild och produktbeskrivning. Dock kan det vara så att om intentionen verkligen är att genomföra ett köp kan annan information som exempelvis rör retur-, leverans- eller köpvillkor anses vara relevanta direkta signaler. För hela plagget är två bilder att föredra, en framifrån och en bakifrån. Bilderna bör vara av mycket god kvalitet och inte heller vara för mörka. Produktbilderna bör ha en sportigare framtoning för att ge konsumenter känslan att det faktiskt är ett sportplagg som presenteras. Konsumenter vill även ha möjlighet att se plaggets detaljer och sömmar. Detta kan göras genom zoom-funktion eller detaljbilder. Den verbala informationen är viktig för att beskriva materialets funktion och komposition då detta kan vara svårt att få en uppfattning om bara genom bilder av ett plagg.

År 2014, var kläder och skor två av de varukategorier som resulterade i flest transaktioner online, i Sverige. Till följd av att e-handeln växer, behöver företag inom modeindustrin utveckla sin visual merchandising online, så att den är lika effektiv som i fysiska butiker. De amerikanska forskarna Ha, Kwon och Lennon (2007) utvecklade i en studie en taxonomi där de undersökte visual merchandsing-element på den koreanska och amerikanska e-handelsmarknaden. Syftet med denna studie är att testa den taxonomi som Ha et al. (2007) utvecklade, på e-handelssidor riktade mot den svenska marknaden. Resultatet jämförs med den tidigare studien av Ha et al. (2007), följaktligen e-handelssidor på den koreanska och amerikanska marknaden. Detta utförs genom att undersöka om de visual merchandsing-element som Ha et al. (2007) identifierade återfinns på e-handelssidor riktade mot den svenska marknaden, samt om det finns nya visual merchandising-element som kan identifieras på e-handelssidor riktade mot den svenska marknaden. Som metod användes en innehållsanalys där online visual merchandsing-teman studerades på 50 e-handelssidor riktade mot den svenska marknaden. De teman, med underliggande element, som analyserades var navigering, e-handelsmiljön och produktpresentation. Utöver dessa teman lades ytterligare ett tema till, från en studie gjord av Park och Stoel (2002); information. Flertalet andra element observerades som inte fanns med i den tidigare taxonomin av Ha et al. (2007) och dessa adderades till studien. Resultatet visade att vissa av elementen inom online visual merchandsing på den svenska marknaden skiljde sig från de resultat Ha et al. (2007) presenterade i sin studie / In 2014, apparel and shoes was two of the product categories that resulted in most transactions online in Sweden. As a result of the growing interest in e-commerce, companies in the fashion industry needs to develop visual merchandising strategies that can function just as well online as the ones in physical stores. In a study made by the American researchers Ha, Kwon and Lennon (2007), a taxonomy was developed in order to examine visual merchandising elements of apparel retail websites in Korea and The US. The purpose of this study is to test the taxonomy created by Ha et al. (2007) on websites targeted at the Swedish market This will be done by addressing the questions at issue; to examine if the visual merchandising elements that Ha et al. (2007) identified can be found on the web sites in this study and to examine whether there are new elements to identify on the web sites targeted at the Swedish market. A content analysis was used to examine online visual merchandising-themes on 50 Swedish e-commerce sites. The themes analysed, with underlying elements, was environment, manner of presentation, path finding. In addition to these themes another one was added from a study made by Park and Stoel (2002), information. During the analysis several elements that was not included in the previous studies was discovered. These were also added to the taxonomy developed in this study. The findings of the study showed that some of the online visual merchandsing-elements differed on the Swedish market compared to previous studies. Also as mentioned, the taxonomy was further developed. This thesis will henceforth be written in Swedish.

Denna studie har som syfte att förklara och ge en ökad förståelse för hur utvalda företag i modebranschen arbetar med det fysiska upplägget i butiker, genom bland annat atmosfär, sinnesstimuli och visuell merchandising. Samt vilken påverkan upplägget kan ha på konsumenters köpbeslutsprocesser och därmed även uppfattningen om varumärket. Sex intervjuer med olika företag har gett kvalitativa data som sedan analyserats mot varandra utifrån studiens teoretiska referensram. Resultat visar på att de studerade företagen inte planerar sin butiksyta beroende på teorier om konsumentbeteende och sinnesmarknadsföring. Utan istället planeras ytan beroende på varumärke och positionering, vilket skiljer sig åt beroende på företag. Att förmedla en känsla och att ge ett helhetsintryck med hjälp av upplägget är viktigt och baseras på hur butikerna vill att varumärket ska uppfattas, vilket sedan påverkar köpbeslutsprocessen då det avgör om kunderna väljer att konsumera i butiken eller inte. En lyckad planering av butiksytan för de studerade företagen, grundar sig därmed inte på hur väl ytan planeras utifrån tidigare forskning om sinnesmarknadsföring och visuell merchandising, utan hur bra den planeras utifrån varumärket. / This study aims to describe and to give greater understanding of how selected companies in the fashion industry works with the physical layout of stores, including the use of atmosphere, sensory stimuli and visual merchandising. Also what impact the layout can have on consumers buying process and the perception of the brand. Six interviews with different companies gave qualitative data that was analyzed together and against each other, based on the theoretical framework of the study. The result shows that the selected companies do not plan the layout based on theories of consumer behavior or sensory marketing. Instead the layout is planned based on the brand and the positioning the company works for, which differentiates itself based on what company it is. To convey a feeling and to give an overall impression of the brand with the help of layout is important, and it is based on how the companies want the brand to be perceived. This then affects the buying process because it determines if the customers choses to consume in the store or not. A successful planning of the layout, for the companies in the study, is therefore not based on how well it matches with recent research in the field, but how well it is matched based on the brand only.

Made available in DSpace on 2016-08-03T12:30:17Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 Sonia Maria Gobbo.pdf: 331005 bytes, checksum: 19785b143ef8475c4c9c80faaaecbdae (MD5) Previous issue date: 2006-05-03 / Este trabalho buscou investigar a utilização do merchandising editorial como veículo comunicacional na ficção televisiva, em uma sociedade em que os meios de comunicação são importantes referenciais culturais e fontes de informação que orientam a conduta dos indivíduos. Para o estudo de caso proposto foi escolhida a novela Celebridade veiculada entre 13 de outubro de 2003 a 26 de junho de 2004, em 221 capítulos pela Rede Globo de Televisão, por ser um programa de grande audiência e penetração social. Foram analisados os capítulos (maio/2004) onde foram feitas às inserções do merchandising editorial dos pontos turísticos da Cidade de João Pessoa no Estado da Paraíba. Os resultados obtidos sinalizaram que o merchandising editorial como veiculo promocional pode ser uma ferramenta muito importante para divulgação de localidades turísticas.(AU)

Submitted by Irene Nascimento (irene.kessia@ufpe.br) on 2016-09-13T17:39:20Z No. of bitstreams: 2 license_rdf: 1232 bytes, checksum: 66e71c371cc565284e70f40736c94386 (MD5) DISSERTAÇÃO O CONFORTO NO PONTO DE VENDA - MABEL G GUIMARAES - FINAL.pdf: 8947746 bytes, checksum: 594f97404873af2c173d4fc7a2d8eee2 (MD5) / Made available in DSpace on 2016-09-13T17:39:20Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 2 license_rdf: 1232 bytes, checksum: 66e71c371cc565284e70f40736c94386 (MD5) DISSERTAÇÃO O CONFORTO NO PONTO DE VENDA - MABEL G GUIMARAES - FINAL.pdf: 8947746 bytes, checksum: 594f97404873af2c173d4fc7a2d8eee2 (MD5) Previous issue date: 2016-01-29 / CAPES / O presente estudo buscou identificar os significados e os elementos representativos de conforto no ambiente de loja do varejo de moda feminina, a fim de elaborar diretrizes para avaliação de conforto por meio da análise dos elementos de composição da experiência do consumidor no ponto de venda e das impressões\sensações gerais sobre a mesma. Desta forma, a pesquisa possui caráter exploratório e descritivo, de abordagem qualitativa, utilizando-se de uma pesquisa de campo para coleta de dados, realizada em três etapas (entrevistas com cinco especialistas em visual merchandising, aplicação de questionário online com 150 mulheres e, por fim, um estudo de caso com loja representante do varejo moda feminina situada na cidade de Recife). O estudo sugere que o conforto do consumidor no ambiente de loja deste segmento se dá pela sua interação com cinco macroelementos (produtos, condições do ambiente, serviços, pessoas e apresentação de loja\elementos de composição do ambiente), apresentando-se em forma de 10 sensações (dimensão subjetivas) representantes de conforto para consumidor. Tal levantamento permitiu elaborar um mapa de conforto no ponto de venda, além de formular diretrizes de avaliação de conforto para este segmento, as quais podem auxiliar tanto os profissionais de projeto em visual merchandising\design de loja, quanto varejistas na avaliação do espaço, permitindo compreender a percepção que seu cliente tem da loja e da experiência, de forma a propor adequadas ao espaço do varejo. / This study aimed to identify the meanings and the representative elements of comfort in the environment of female fashion retail stores, in order to design guidelines for the evaluation of comfort through the analysis of consumer experience elements at the point of sale and the impressions\general sensations on the same. In this way, the research is characterized as an exploratory and descriptive study with a qualitative approach, using a field research for data gathering, held in three stages (interviews with five specialists in visual merchandising, followed by the application of an online survey with 150 women and, a case study with a female retail store located in the city of Recife). The study suggests that the consumer comfort in the shop environment of this segment is obtained by their interaction with five macro-elements (products, conditions of the environment, services, persons and presentation of souvenirs\elements of environment composition), presenting itself in the form of 10 sensations (subjective dimensions) representatives of comfort for the consumer. Such identification allowed to create a map of comfort at the point of sale, in addition to formulate guidelines for the evaluation of comfort for this segment, which can help both visual merchandiser and retailers in the evaluation of space, allowing them to understand the customer’s perception about the store and the experience, in order to propose appropriate solutions for to the point of sale.

A presente pesquisa busca observar a articulação entre merchandising social e função educativa na telenovela brasileira como geradora de pautas para a imprensa e de temas de conversação nas redes sociais da internet. Entre as redes sociais, escolhemos o Facebook, como local de análise das conversações sobre os temas sociais. Para isso, realizamos um estudo de caso da telenovela Salve Jorge, de autoria de Gloria Perez, transmitida pela Rede Globo, por meio de uma metodologia que aborda tanto a recepção a partir dos conteúdos emitidos pela televisão, passando pelo repercussão na imprensa, como pelos posts no Facebook. A recepção foi vista de acordo com o que Martín-Barbero definiu como operadores perceptivos e suas destrezas discursivas. Um aspecto que merece destaque é que os temas sociais aparecem mais constantemente tratados na mídia hegemônica como jornais, revistas e tv, do que nas redes sociais, demonstrando que a conversação nesses locais nem sempre é pautada pelos discursos correntes dos produtores oficiais de conteúdo. / This research aims to observe the articulation between social merchandising and educational function in the in Brazilian telenovela themes as generating conversation on social networks of the internet. Between social networks, we chose Facebook, as local analysis of conversations about social issues. For this, we will hold a case study of Salve Jorge telenovela, written by Gloria Perez, broadcast by Rede Globo, through a methodology that addresses both the reception from the content broadcast on television as posts by principal Salve Jorge fanpages on Facebook last month display the plot. The reception will be seen from what Martín-Barbero coined as perceptual operators and their discursive skills. One aspect worth mentioning is that the social themes appear constantly treated in more mainstream media such as newspapers, magazines and television, that in social networks, demonstrating that the conversation at these sites is not always guided by current discourses of official producers of content.