L’achat d’occasion est un phénomène de consommation en plein essor. Alors que les motivations du consommateur à acheter d’occasion ont suscité de nombreuses recherches, les freins sont rarement étudiés, notamment dans le contexte de l’achat en ligne. Pourtant, une meilleure compréhension de ces freins présente des enjeux aussi bien économiques qu’environnementaux ou sociétaux. Dans ce travail, nous nous intéressons aux freins relatifs à la perception d’une contagion physique ou symbolique des produits d’occasion. En effet, ces freins – qui sont soulignés dans la littérature sur l’achat hors ligne – sont remis en question par le contexte spécifique de l’achat sur Internet. Nous mobilisons ainsi la théorie des lois de la magie sympathique pour étudier dans quelle mesure la loi de contagion et la loi de similitude peuvent influencer l’achat d’un produit d’occasion en ligne. Cette thèse repose sur un design expérimental comportant trois études empiriques. Les résultats obtenus permettent d’identifier des déterminants situationnels et individuels de la contagion physique ou symbolique des produits d’occasion vendus en ligne et d’étudier leur influence négative sur l’intention d’achat. Contrairement à l’achat hors ligne, nous montrons que la contagion physique repose alors sur un mécanisme cognitif. De plus, les résultats indiquent que la loi de similitude permet de limiter les effets de la contagion. En conclusion, cette recherche permet de proposer plusieurs solutions pour améliorer la vente des produits d’occasion en ligne. / Secondhand shopping is a growing phenomenon. While secondhand shopping motivations received a lot of attention in marketing literature, consumer reluctance to shop secondhand remains under-Researched, especially in an online context. Yet, the stakes in better understanding this reluctance are not only economic, but also environmental and societal. In this research, we focus on consumer reluctance that is related to the perception of a physical or symbolic contagion of secondhand products. Indeed, while this reluctance is highlighted in literature on secondhand shopping offline, its role is questioned in an online context. Hence, we use the theoretical framework of the laws of sympathetic magic to study to what extent the contagion or similarity laws influence the intention to shop secondhand online. We use an experimental design made of three empirical studies. Results enable us to identify several situational and individual antecedents of the physical or symbolic contagion associated to a secondhand product sold online, and to study how contagion negatively influences the intention to purchase. In opposite to offline shopping, we show that physical contagion relies on a cognitive mechanism. Moreover, results show that the similarity law can reduce the effects of contagion. To conclude with, this research suggests various solutions to improve the sales of secondhand products online.

Lojala kunder är eftertraktade för företag, genom deras återkommande köp och positiva attityd till varumärket. Icke vinstdrivande secondhandorganisationer bygger sin verksamhet på att personer skänker gåvor (gåvogivare), varför det är attraktivt att de är lojala (givarlojalitet). Dessa organisationer bedriver biståndsarbete med intäkter från försäljningen av gåvor, samt erbjuder arbetsträning och liknande insatser i sin verksamhet. Detta gör att ökad givarlojalitet leder till minskade sociala klyftor i samhället. Vikten av givarlojalitet ökar också genom ett allt större miljöfokus i samhället, vilket i sin tur ger ökande konkurrens om begagnade varor. Det blir därmed intressant att skapa insikt i hur secondhandorganisationer arbetar för att nå givarlojalitet. Detta är syftet med denna studie. Medan teorier om lojalitet hos kunder är omfattande, har detta bara i begränsad utsträckning studerats i ett sammanhang av gåvogivare. Det finns därför även ett akademiskt intresse av studien.  Fyra icke vinstdrivande secondhandorganisationer har studerats kvalitativt, genom semistrukturerade intervjuer. Resultaten har analyserats baserat på befintliga teorier om kundlojalitet, med dess etablerade koncept nöjdhet, engagemang och förtroende. Det är tydligt att organisationerna arbetar medvetet för ökad givarlojalitet och att de tillämpar teorier om kundlojalitet. Nöjdhet hos gåvogivarna eftersträvas i ett positivt gåvotillfälle och att erbjuda en känsla av att göra gott. Engagemang baseras på gåvogivarens vilja att göra gott. Förtroende hos gåvogivarna vill man bygga vid gåvotillfället, genom skriftlig information och en verksamhet som är förtroendefull. En sammanfattande modell för hur secondhandorganisationer arbetar för att skapa givarlojalitet har tagits fram.  Sammantaget visar studien att organisationerna försöker skapa givalojalitet genom kommunikation. Samtidigt har kommunikation kring miljömässigheten med secondhand och om den arbetsträning som erbjuds fått stå tillbaka, till förmån för kommunikation om den nytta som gåvorna generar i biståndsverksamheten. / Customer loyalty is very much desired for companies, based on its implications to reoccurring purchases and positive attitudes to the brand. The operations of non-profit second-hand organisations rely on people (donors) to donate their used goods. It is thus beneficial for them to obtain loyalty among donors (donor loyalty). The overall aim of these organisations is to generate revenues from the sale of second-hand goods, to provide aid to vulnerable people. To provide work training and similar social activities is an important part of their operations as well. These activities imply that high donor loyalty will lead to less social gaps in society. The importance of donor loyalty is enhanced by environmental concerns in society, which leads to more competition for used goods. It is thus of interest to gain insights to the way second-hand organisations are working to obtain donor loyalty. This is the aim of this study. Theories of customer loyalty are vast, but donor loyalty has been scarcely studied before. This implies this study should be of interest for the academic community as well. Four non-profit second-hand organisations were included in this study, utilizing a qualitative method of semi structured interviews. The results were analysed based on established theories within customer loyalty, and the underlying concepts of satisfaction, engagement and trust.  The analysis gave that the organisations are working consciously to obtain donor loyalty, applying theories of customer loyalty. Donor satisfaction is strived for by developing a positive donating occasion. Engagement is based on the donors wish to make a contribution to charity. Trust is aimed for at the donating occasion, through written information and by trustworthy operations of the organisations. A model for donor loyality in the context of non-profit second-hand organisations was generated. In summary the organisations strive to strengthen donor loyalty through communication with the donors. There was a clear focus on communication about charity, but communication about the environmental friendliness of second hand operations and the genuine social focus of the organisations (e.g., work training) was scarce.

Purpose To estimate the prevalence of secondhand smoke (SHS) exposure among never-smoking adolescents and identify key factors associated with such exposure. Methods Data were obtained from nationally representative Global Youth Tobacco Surveys conducted in 168 countries during 1999-2008. SHS exposure was ascertained in relation to the location - exposure inside home, outside home, and both inside and outside home, respectively. Independent variables included parental and/or peer smoking, knowledge about smoke harm, attitudes toward smoking ban, age, sex, and World Health Organization region. Simple and multiple logistic regression analyses were conducted. Results Of 356,414 never-smoking adolescents included in the study, 30.4%, 44.2%, and 23.2% were exposed to SHS inside home, outside home, and both, respectively. Parental smoking, peer smoking, knowledge about smoke harm, and positive attitudes toward smoke ban were significantly associated with increased odds of SHS exposure. Approximately 14% of adolescents had both smoking parents and peers. Compared with never-smoking adolescents who did not have both smoking parents and peers, those who had both smoking parents and peers had 19 (adjusted odds ratio [aOR], 19.0; 95% confidence interval [CI], 16.86-21.41), eight (aOR, 7.71; 95% CI, 7.05-8.43), and 23 times (aOR, 23.16; 95% CI, 20.74-25.87) higher odds of exposure to SHS inside, outside, and both inside and outcome home, respectively. Conclusions Approximately one third and two fifths of never-smoking adolescents were exposed to SHS inside or outside home, and smoking parents and/or peers are the key factors. Study findings highlight the need to develop and implement comprehensive smoke-free policies consistent with the World Health Organization Framework Convention on Tobacco Control.

Fast fashion is an industry that is closely linked to the cause of climate change, and it is the second largest industry to contribute to pollution. In Sweden, one of the largest groups to consume fast fashion is young consumers, i.e., Generation Z. The same generation is also the information generation, meaning that they are the ones to solve the climate crisis. Social practice theory (SPT) is used to understand the reason behind different practices in society. But is lacking in research on fast fashion. This study, therefore, aims to understand the reasons, values, and practices through the lenses of SPT for why young consumers (Generation Z) in Sweden consume fast fashion despite knowing its effects on the environment. To understand the phenomenon, data has been collected on young consumers in Sweden (age 17-21) in two different cities. The analysis and data show that price is a big factor, the availability of secondhand stores also affects the possibility to choose another option. Climate change is something that was less important for most of the respondents and can be understood as a dying trend. It can be understood that Generation Z is not a homogenous group in Sweden. The findings also suggest that the SPT model should ideally be implemented with a study on external factors to describe possible reasons for understanding a practice as well to enable other practices which can be more sustainable

MENDING ON DISPLAY is an exploration of how to involve people in mending and have it be incorporated into everyday life. This was done through mending workshops, investigative conversations and a window display exhibiting visibly mended clothes. With all the devastating news reporting on how the planet is rapidly changing for the worse, it’s important to show that there can be joy in striving towards sustainable solutions, and moving away from current fashion culture does not have to mean compromising on your personal expression. The two main collaborations in the project are with the people interacting with it, and the secondhand store Busfrö. For this type of workshop to engage people in mending it needs to regularly occur, a routine space where one can join in for example once a month in the same place. These places exist already but few know about them, we need more of these initiatives in different contexts in order to spread the engagement in the craft. In my work I invited others to join through workshops, but I also felt welcomed into a bigger context and community network where mending is the binding force.

Goal number 12 of the Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) by the United Nations (UN)emphasises on how the increase in the world population is hampering the achievement ofenvironmental sustainability. The diminishing resources of nature draw attention to the factthat more innovative methods need to salvage the environment and the planet at large.Textiles or clothing are one of the essential things that every human owns and with a globalpopulation of over 7 billion, there is an urgency to find ways to reduce its production, due tothe number of resources used and the amount of emissions the textile/clothing industryproduces.The Swedish Red Cross is a charitable organisation that deals with second-hand clothing toraise profits for its activities while contributing to environmental sustainability. Their secondhandretail shops give customers value for their money while extending the lifecycle of clothes.Due to their non-profitable nature puts much pressure on their finances. The need for revenuecalls for finding more environmentally sustainable ways of making a profit out of the clothesthey receive while evaluating the transportation options to reduce cost.Literature review and route optimisation in ArcGIS are used in the analysis. Driving timeanalysis is carried out to link stores to the closest depots to provide graphical and efficientmeans of reaching all the stores. The review of literature offers insights for environmentallysustainable ways of making a profit from second-hand clothes.The outcome provides results which will help generate more profit as well as cut down themajor contributor to the high transportation cost by more than 50%. Moreover, a suggestion ismade for a new time frame and a new travel mode to improve the coordination between thestores and the depots

Orientador: Dionei Ramos / Resumo: Introdução: Estima-se que um terço da população mundial inale involuntariamente a fumaça do cigarro, o que pode causar efeitos adversos como alteração dos sinais vitais, redução da função pulmonar e aumentar o risco de desenvolvimento de doenças respiratórias crônicas como a asma. Durante a exacerbação da asma, ocorre aumento da atividade dos músculos respiratórios acessórios e abdominais, o que pode resultar em adaptações musculares e desestabilização da coluna vertebral com consequente relato de dor lombar. Objetivos: O objetivo do primeiro estudo foi avaliar os efeitos do tabagismo passivo na função pulmonar e sinais vitais e correlacionar com fatores de exposição, bem como verificar os benefícios da cessação da exposição à fumaça do cigarro; já o segundo, foi investigar a associação entre dor lombar e asma em uma grande amostra de gêmeos. Métodos: Para o primeiro estudo, 42 indivíduos foram avaliados (19 no grupo exposto e 23 no grupo controle) em relação à função pulmonar, sinais vitais e histórico de exposição à fumaça do cigarro antes e após 8 semanas a cessação da exposição. Já para o segundo estudo, a amostra foi composta de 4.808 gêmeos adultos provenientes do registro de gêmeos da Austrália e de Murcia. Todos os gêmeos responderam a perguntas sobre prevalência de dor lombar, asma e histórico tabagístico. Resultados e Conclusões: O primeiro estudo evidenciou que a CVF de tabagistas passivos está reduzida em comparação a de indivíduos que nunca fumaram se encontra. C... (Resumo completo, clicar acesso eletrônico abaixo) / Abstract: Introduction: It is estimated that one third of the world population involuntarily inhale cigarette smoke, which can cause adverse effects such as changes in vital signs, reduced lung function and increase the risk of developing chronic respiratory diseases such as asthma. During exacerbation of asthma, there is increased activity of respiratory accessories and abdominal muscles, which can result in muscle adaptations and destabilization of the spine, with consequent reporting back pain. Aims: The aim of the first study was to evaluate the effects of passive smoking on lung function and vital signs and correlate with exposure factors and verify the benefits of cessation of exposure to cigarette smoke; the aim of the second was to investigate the association between low back pain and asthma in a large sample of twins. Methods: For the first study, 42 subjects were assessed (19 in the exposed group and 23 in the control group) in relation to pulmonary function, vital signs and history of exposure to cigarette smoke before and after 8 weeks of the end of exposure. For the second study, the sample consisted of 4,808 adult twins from the record of twins from Australia and Murcia. All twins answered questions about the prevalence of low back pain, asthma, and Smoking status history. Results and Conclusions: The first study showed that FVC passive smokers is reduced compared to individuals who have never smoked is. However, the FVC values presented by passive smokers in this study a... (Complete abstract click electronic access below) / Mestre

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No. of bitstreams: 1 brigida_gfs_me_prud.pdf: 1386372 bytes, checksum: b7a980eac33c2f79eb4ffd155d3c0ee9 (MD5) Previous issue date: 2016-05-25 / Fundação de Amparo à Pesquisa do Estado de São Paulo (FAPESP) / Introdução: Estima-se que um terço da população mundial inale involuntariamente a fumaça do cigarro, o que pode causar efeitos adversos como alteração dos sinais vitais, redução da função pulmonar e aumentar o risco de desenvolvimento de doenças respiratórias crônicas como a asma. Durante a exacerbação da asma, ocorre aumento da atividade dos músculos respiratórios acessórios e abdominais, o que pode resultar em adaptações musculares e desestabilização da coluna vertebral com consequente relato de dor lombar. Objetivos: O objetivo do primeiro estudo foi avaliar os efeitos do tabagismo passivo na função pulmonar e sinais vitais e correlacionar com fatores de exposição, bem como verificar os benefícios da cessação da exposição à fumaça do cigarro; já o segundo, foi investigar a associação entre dor lombar e asma em uma grande amostra de gêmeos. Métodos: Para o primeiro estudo, 42 indivíduos foram avaliados (19 no grupo exposto e 23 no grupo controle) em relação à função pulmonar, sinais vitais e histórico de exposição à fumaça do cigarro antes e após 8 semanas a cessação da exposição. Já para o segundo estudo, a amostra foi composta de 4.808 gêmeos adultos provenientes do registro de gêmeos da Austrália e de Murcia. Todos os gêmeos responderam a perguntas sobre prevalência de dor lombar, asma e histórico tabagístico. Resultados e Conclusões: O primeiro estudo evidenciou que a CVF de tabagistas passivos está reduzida em comparação a de indivíduos que nunca fumaram se encontra. Contudo, os valores da CVF apresentados pelos tabagistas passivos deste estudo estão dentro da normalidade. A redução da CVF está diretamente correlacionada com a quantidade de horas por dia de exposição; e que tabagistas passivos não apresentaram alteração dos índices espirométricos e sinais vitais após oito semanas da cessação da exposição à fumaça do cigarro. O segundo estudo evidenciou que a dor lombar está associada com a asma na amostra combinada de gêmeos (incluindo gêmeos australianos e espanhóis) e na amostra de gêmeos australianos, mesmo depois do ajuste para fatores de confusão como idade, sexo, índice de massa corporal e tabagismo. Contudo, fatores genéticos e ambientais mostraram atenuar a força dessa associação quando são controlados. Adicionalmente, a prevalência da doença e exposições geográficas específicas devem ser levadas em consideração, uma vez que esses fatores também podem influenciar esta associação. / Introduction: It is estimated that one third of the world population involuntarily inhale cigarette smoke, which can cause adverse effects such as changes in vital signs, reduced lung function and increase the risk of developing chronic respiratory diseases such as asthma. During exacerbation of asthma, there is increased activity of respiratory accessories and abdominal muscles, which can result in muscle adaptations and destabilization of the spine, with consequent reporting back pain. Aims: The aim of the first study was to evaluate the effects of passive smoking on lung function and vital signs and correlate with exposure factors and verify the benefits of cessation of exposure to cigarette smoke; the aim of the second was to investigate the association between low back pain and asthma in a large sample of twins. Methods: For the first study, 42 subjects were assessed (19 in the exposed group and 23 in the control group) in relation to pulmonary function, vital signs and history of exposure to cigarette smoke before and after 8 weeks of the end of exposure. For the second study, the sample consisted of 4,808 adult twins from the record of twins from Australia and Murcia. All twins answered questions about the prevalence of low back pain, asthma, and Smoking status history. Results and Conclusions: The first study showed that FVC passive smokers is reduced compared to individuals who have never smoked is. However, the FVC values presented by passive smokers in this study are within normal limits. The reduction in FVC is directly correlated with the amount of hours per day of exposure; and passive smokers showed no change in spirometric indices and vital signs after eight weeks of the end of exposure to cigarette smoke. The second study showed that low back pain is associated with asthma in the combined sample of twins (including australian and spanish twins) and the sample of australian twins, even after adjusting for confounding factors such as age, sex, body mass index and smoking. However, genetic and environmental factors showed attenuate the strength of this association when controlled. Additionally, the prevalence of the disease and specific geographical exposures should be taken into account, since these factors can also influence this association. / FAPESP: 2014/08950-0

Att motivera människor att volontärarbeta är en växande utmaning för många ideella organisationer. För att på längre sikt kunna behålla volontärer i en organisation är det fundamentalt att förstå vad som motiverar dem. I denna kvantitativa studie var syftet att undersöka vad som motiverar individer att arbeta som volontärer i en secondhand-verksamhet. Ett strategiskt urval resulterade i sju butiker där 181 enkätsvar samlades in, en svarsfrekvens på 91 procent. Resultatet visade bland annat att volontärerna motiverades av både altruistiska och egoistiska orsaker. De positiva sociala aspekterna i volontärarbetet nämndes frekvent som viktigaste motivation. Vidare återfanns flera samband mellan att känna sig respekterad som volontär och att känna stolthet över att vara en del av organisationen. Dessa båda fungerade som motiverande anledningar. En av slutsatserna var att volontärarbete bidrar till förbättrade sociala förhållanden och en känsla av meningsfullhet för volontärerna själva. / Motivating people for volunteer work is a growing challenge for many nonprofit organizations. In order to be able to retain volunteers in an organization in the longer term, it is fundamental to understand what motivates them. In this quantitative study, the purpose was to investigate what motivates individuals to work as volunteers in a second-hand business. A strategic selection resulted in seven stores in which 181 questionnaires were collected, a response rate of 91 percent. The results showed, among other things, that volunteers were motivated by both altruistic and selfish reasons. The positive social aspects of volunteering were frequently mentioned as the main motivation. Furthermore, there were several connections between feeling respected as a volunteer and feeling proud of being part of the organization. These both served as motivating reasons. One of the conclusions was that volunteering contributes to improved social conditions and a sense of meaningfulness for the volunteers themselves.

This thesis project is based on the area of ​​Technical Design with a focus on sustainable development and sustainable consumption. The purpose of the project is to develop a concept for a product or service that helps families with children to reduce their negative environmental impact without reducing the supply of the products they need. The goal of the project is to provide in-depth knowledge of product and service development based on human needs. At the end of the project, a well-developed prototype will be created and presented. In order to succeed in creating a concept that both meets the users needs and contributes to minimal environmental impact, literature studies have been carried out in subjects such as sustainable development, aesthetics, consumption and circular economy. The project has been implemented according to the Design Thinking process (Hasso Plattner Institute of Design at Stanford, u.å.). The process consists of the five phases Empathize, Define, Ideate, Build and Test. The sixth phase reDesign was added to set aside time for adjustments according to the user feedback collected in the test phase. Methods such as survey and interview were used early in the process to gain understanding of the users needs and motivations. The information collected in the Empathize phase was analyzed in the Define phase. With the use of methods such as Persona and Point of View, four problem areas could be identified and further defined. During sessions of How might we and brainstorming, many creative solutions were created. The idea that was considered to solve the problem in the best way was built as a prototype and then used in interactive user tests. Based on the user feedback, some adjustments were made prior to the final concept. The result of this thesis was the concept Pre-Loved Things, a new way of giving away gifts that do not increase consumption but instead make use of the resources that already exist. The end product is a sticker, designed to symbolize all the good that used products stand for. As a complement to this symbol, gift packages in different sizes are also sold, the idea is that these should be combined with an optional used product to easily create a nice gift that is ready to be given away. The hope is that the concept will change people's attitudes to used products and thus encourage more people to make a sustainable choice. / Detta examensarbete har sin utgångspunkt i området Teknisk Design med inriktning mot ekologiskt hållbarhet och hållbar konsumtion. Syftet med examensarbetet är att ta fram ett koncept på en produkt eller tjänst som hjälper familjer med barn att minska sin negativa miljöpåverkan utan att för den skull minska utbudet av de produkter de behöver. Målet med projektet är att det ska ge fördjupad kunskap kring produkt- och tjänsteutveckling utifrån mänskliga behov. I slutet av projektet ska en välutvecklad prototyp tillverkas och presenteras. För att lyckas skapa ett slutkoncept som både möter användarnas behov och bidrar till minimal miljöpåverkan har litteraturstudier genomförts inom ämnen som hållbar utveckling, estetik, konsumtion och cirkulär ekonomi.  Projektet har genomförts enligt Design Thinking-processen (Hasso Plattner Institute of Design at Stanford, u.å.). Denna process består av de fem faserna Empathize, Define, Ideate, Build och Test. Den sjätte fasen reDesign las till för att redan från start planera in tid för justeringar efter den användarfeedback som samlas in i Test-fasen. Metoder som enkät och intervju användes tidigt i processen för att förstå användarnas behov och motivationer. Den information som samlades in i Empathize-fasen analyserades i Define-fasen och med hjälp av metoder som Persona och Point of View kunde fyra problemområden identifieras och definieras. Under sessioner av How might we och brainstorming så skapades många kreativa lösningar. Den idé som ansågs lösa problemet på bästa sätt byggdes som prototyp och användes sedan i interaktiva användartester. Utifrån användarnas feedback så gjordes vissa justeringar inför det slutgiltiga konceptet.  Resultatet av detta examensarbete blev konceptet För Älskade-saker, ett nytt sätt att ge bort gåvor som inte ökar konsumtion utan istället tar tillvara på de resurser som redan finns. Slutprodukten är ett klistermärke, som ska symbolisera allt det bra som begagnade produkter står för. Som ett komplement till denna symbol säljs även presentförpackningar i olika storlekar, tanken är att dessa ska kombineras med en valfri begagnad produkt för att enkelt skapa en fin gåva som är redo att ges vidare. Förhoppningen är att konceptet ska ändra människors inställning till begagnade produkter och på så sätt uppmuntra fler att göra ett hållbart val.