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Inconformidades indumentárias: reflexões sobre moda e crossdressing / Sartorial nonconformity: reflections on fashion and crossdressingArcoverde, Maíra 20 April 2017 (has links)
Este trabalho tem como propósito lançar uma reflexão sobre as maneiras pelas quais os usos descontextualizados da roupa podem consistir em uma subversão do sistema, sobretudo por meio das práticas de crossdressing. A moda, aqui, foi analisada em dois movimentos: o primeiro, que consiste no reforço ao modelo binário de gênero; e o segundo, em que se aproveita de fissuras oriundas da própria norma para causar-lhe perturbações. A partir de referenciais teóricometodológicos feministas e queer, foram realizadas investigações qualitativas, como entrevistas e pesquisas de campo, que possibilitaram uma perspectiva dos sujeitos como provisórios e cambiantes, contribuindo para que suas narrativas fossem compreendidas de maneira mais ampla e menos limitada. A roupa, no contexto do crossdressing, foi observada como parte fundamental da construção das subjetividades e da imagem feminina à qual as crossdressers aspiram, denunciando precisamente o caráter construído da naturalidade dos gêneros que encontra endosso na moda. Ainda que parte dos discursos de produção da normalidade, a vestimenta encerra inumeráveis possibilidades de (r)existência que desestabilizam e desmantelam hegemonias / This research aims to propose a reflection on the ways through which the decontextualized uses of clothing can consist in a subversion of the system, especially through crossdressing practices. Hence fashion was analyzed in two movements: the first, which consists in reinforcing the binary gender model; and the second, in which it takes advantage of the cracks originating from the very norm in order to disturb it. From feminist and queer theoretical-methodological frameworks, qualitative inquiries such as interviews and fieldwork were carried out, which permitted a perspective of the subjects as provisional and mutable, allowing their narratives to be comprehended in a wider and less constrained manner. Clothing, within the crossdressing context, was seen as a fundamental part in the construction of the subjectivities and of the feminine image to which crossdressers aspire. That way, it precisely exposes the fabricated character of gender, which finds support in fashion. Though being part of the production of normality discourses, clothes encompass numberless possibilities of (r)existence that destabilize and dismantle hegemonies
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A prática crossdresser na blogosfera: um estudo baseado em análise de blogs crossdressers / The crossdresser practice at the blogosphere: a study based on the analysis of crossdresser’s blogsBarbosa, Marcela Thaís de Melo 25 August 2014 (has links)
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Previous issue date: 2014-08-25 / Coordenação de Aperfeiçoamento de Pessoal de Nível Superior - CAPES / This research consists of an analysis of blogs perceived as crossdressers’. In other words,
blogs that use the word crossdresser in their headline and/or in their content description.
These blogs, that are mainly used as virtual diaries, are propagators of opinion, virtual
contents that go beyond text, the usage of words. They propagate ideas also by images,
pictures, videos and audio. It was pursued the understanding of what the crossdressing
practice is to these bloggers through the analysis of pictoric and textual elements, also
observing which categories would come up through their speech and dress-up. For this
research , the blogs to be analyzed were chosen by means of common internet research tools,
focusing on the first results presented. It were intended, through the reading and analysis of
these blogs, written by crossdressers, or by authors that use that category as the blog’s
justification, to approach behaviors that evidence what people so-called crossdressers do
when they evoke this category. In other words, what people do when they announce to be
involved with the practice. It was concluded by means of this analysis that there is a
heterogeneity in the understanding of the practice that involves differences when dressing up,
and also, differences in the way of perceiving and experience the practice. / Este trabalho compreende a análise de blogs tidos como crossdressers, ou seja, que usam a
palavra crossdresser em seus títulos e/ou em suas descrições de conteúdo. Estes blogs, que
funcionam primariamente como diários virtuais, são propagadores de opiniões, de conteúdos
virtuais que extrapolam o texto, as palavras. Propagam ideias também através de imagens,
fotos, vídeos e áudios. Buscou-se através da análise de elementos pictóricos e textuais,
entender o que é a prática crossdresser para est@s blogueir@s, observando também quais
seriam as categorias acionadas através de seus discursos e montagens. Para este trabalho,
foram escolhidos os blogs a serem analisados através de mecanismos de busca comuns na
internet, tratando na análise os blogs que fossem anunciados primeiro. Pretendeu-se, através
da leitura e análise destes blogs escritos por crossdressers ou de autor@s que fazem uso desta
categoria como justificativa do blog, abordar comportamentos que evidenciem o que as
pessoas que se dizem crossdressers fazem quando acionam a categoria, ou seja, quando
anunciam estar praticando o crossdressing. Conclui-se através da análise que há uma
heterogeneidade no entendimento da prática, que envolve diferenças na montagem e também
forma de percebê-la e vivenciá-la.
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Inconformidades indumentárias: reflexões sobre moda e crossdressing / Sartorial nonconformity: reflections on fashion and crossdressingMaíra Arcoverde 20 April 2017 (has links)
Este trabalho tem como propósito lançar uma reflexão sobre as maneiras pelas quais os usos descontextualizados da roupa podem consistir em uma subversão do sistema, sobretudo por meio das práticas de crossdressing. A moda, aqui, foi analisada em dois movimentos: o primeiro, que consiste no reforço ao modelo binário de gênero; e o segundo, em que se aproveita de fissuras oriundas da própria norma para causar-lhe perturbações. A partir de referenciais teóricometodológicos feministas e queer, foram realizadas investigações qualitativas, como entrevistas e pesquisas de campo, que possibilitaram uma perspectiva dos sujeitos como provisórios e cambiantes, contribuindo para que suas narrativas fossem compreendidas de maneira mais ampla e menos limitada. A roupa, no contexto do crossdressing, foi observada como parte fundamental da construção das subjetividades e da imagem feminina à qual as crossdressers aspiram, denunciando precisamente o caráter construído da naturalidade dos gêneros que encontra endosso na moda. Ainda que parte dos discursos de produção da normalidade, a vestimenta encerra inumeráveis possibilidades de (r)existência que desestabilizam e desmantelam hegemonias / This research aims to propose a reflection on the ways through which the decontextualized uses of clothing can consist in a subversion of the system, especially through crossdressing practices. Hence fashion was analyzed in two movements: the first, which consists in reinforcing the binary gender model; and the second, in which it takes advantage of the cracks originating from the very norm in order to disturb it. From feminist and queer theoretical-methodological frameworks, qualitative inquiries such as interviews and fieldwork were carried out, which permitted a perspective of the subjects as provisional and mutable, allowing their narratives to be comprehended in a wider and less constrained manner. Clothing, within the crossdressing context, was seen as a fundamental part in the construction of the subjectivities and of the feminine image to which crossdressers aspire. That way, it precisely exposes the fabricated character of gender, which finds support in fashion. Though being part of the production of normality discourses, clothes encompass numberless possibilities of (r)existence that destabilize and dismantle hegemonies
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Förklädda flickor : könsöverskridning i 1980-talets svenska ungdomsroman /Österlund, Maria, January 2005 (has links) (PDF)
Diss. Åbo : Åbo akademi, 2006. / S. 346-366: Bibliografi.
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[en] SKIN: A MODE OF EXISTENCE CROSSDRESSER / [pt] PELE: UM MODO DE EXISTÊNCIA CROSSDRESSERMANOELA PAULA SAWITZKI 16 July 2015 (has links)
[pt] Pele: um modo de existência crossdresser é um experimento artístico-literário que parte do crossdressing como modo de existência e do corpo de um crossdresser como espaço de encontro e trânsito dos gêneros masculino e feminino. Aponta-se assim para uma tentativa de desfazer as fronteiras e para a construção de entre-lugares que discutem e ultrapassam a dialética em favor do hibridismo, sintetizando o entendimento da produção de subjetividade como fenômeno polifônico e plural. Errância, alteridade e estrangeiridade são postas em questão na investigação de uma identidade em deslocamento. Tais questões também atravessam a busca, por meio da escrita, da linguagem e de estruturas que se alteram, por serem descontínuas, múltiplas e não unificadas. No romance produzido, intitulado Pele, a voz da narradora-autora se decompõe para depois se multiplicar em outras, a ambivalência dos gêneros masculino e feminino confrontam a fixação definitiva, um estrangeiro erra por diferentes cidades, sacudido por vozes, à procura de espaços onde seja capaz de fruir, deslizar por identidades distintas, e um filho se desloca à procura de um pai prestes a desaparecer. O posfácio é constituído como memorial descritivo, que indica os caminhos percorridos durante essa produção. Referências teóricas que deram suporte para o processo de investigação, práticas de escrita e outros experimentos são apontados e discutidos, num cruzamento entre os movimentos artístico e pensante. / [en] Skin: a mode of existence crossdresser is an artistic-literary experiment that broaches crossdressing as a way of existence and the body of a crossdresser as a meeting and transit point of both male and female genders. It seeks to undo borders and to build in-between spaces that discuss and overcome the dialectics in favor of hybridity, synthesizing the understanding of subjectivity as a plural and polyphonic phenomenon. Deviation, otherness and foreignism are brought into question in this search for an identity in transit. Such questions also cross this search, through writing, language and shifting structures, for they are discontinuous, multiple and not unified. In the resulting novel, named Skin, the author-narrator s voice unravels to be multiplied into others, the ambivalence of male and female genders challenge established concepts; a foreigner wanders across different cities, moved by voices, in search of spaces where he might experiment and enjoy various identities; a son shifts searching for a father on the verge of disappearance. The foreword is a descriptive memorial, which indicates the paths followed during this writing. Theoretical references that sustained the investigation process, writing practices and other experiments are noted and discussed, in a crossing between artistic and cognitive movements.
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Klädd, förklädd eller oklädd : Skepnad och transformationer i Saᵓadallāh Wannūs dramatikÖhrn, Per-Erik January 2017 (has links)
Uppsatsen undersöker den yttre skepnadens betydelse i mänskliga transformationer som förekommer i Saᵓadallāh Wannūs drama "Tuqūs al-išārāt wa al-taḥawwulāt" - "Ritualer för apparition och transformation". Med skepnad menas kläder, mask och genusbetingade attribut. Undersökningen är baserad på tre teoretiska områden: Queer theory och crossdressing, klädsel och sociala koder samt kvinnan i samhället. Analysen drar också nytta av vissa begrepp av Gerard Genette och A.J. Greimas som handlar om diskursanalys. Rollfigurerna genomgår metamorfoser av psykologisk och social karaktär. Jag visar hur förändringen av deras yttre apparition är avgörande för hur metamorfoserna effektueras och registreras av omgivningen. Resultatet visar att en inre, men osynlig, transformation inte är lika avgörande som en yttre, då den senare utmanar omgivningen och provocerar fram en motreaktion. En yttre omdaning kan destabilisera samhällsstrukturen, om den bryter mot normerna, / This thesis investigates the significance of outer appearance in human transformations, that occur in Saᵓadallāh Wannūs play "Tuqūs al-išārāt wa al-taḥawwulāt" - "Rituals of Signs and Transformations". Outer appearance i signified by costume, mask and gender-determined attributes. The investigation is done within three theoretical sectors: Queer theory and cross-dressing, clothes and social codes and women in society. The analyses also benefits from certain concepts by Gerard Genette and A.J. Greimas that deal with discourse analyses. The characters go through transformations of a social and psychological character. I demonstrate that the outer appearance is essential for how these are executed and received. My result shows, that an inner, but invisible, change is not as crucial as an outer, as the latter presents a challenge to people and provokes a counter-reaction. An outer appearance can destabilize the social structure, if it violates the standard conformity. / <p>Uppsatsen lades fram den 31 maj 2017 och slutliga versionen betygsattes 15 augusti 2017.</p>
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Lost to Bias : Gender fluidity, queer themes, and challenges to heteronormativity in the work of Edward D. Wood, Jr.Meredith, Jason January 2020 (has links)
The premise of this study is to investigate homonormative concepts in the works of Edward D. Wood, Jr. Following a contextualisation of the time period he was active in, the thesis interacts with camp as a concealed queer discourse and a political voice. Concepts of crossdressing as challenges to heteronormativity are observed in relation to Woods cinematic canon and persona. Case analyses of Glen or Glenda (1953) and Take It Out in Trade (1970) observe how mentioned methodologies are applicable. The conclusions relate data exhibiting queer discourses held by Wood. Camp as a signifier of queer representation and counter oppression is identified as a discourse within Wood’s films. Examples given demonstrate how this is obscured within the agency of narrators, dialogue and metaphors. As camp evolves post-Stonewall, an adherence to camp as a parody of heteronormativity is acknowledged in later Wood pieces. Exploring concepts of crossdressing in Wood’s cinema, drag and transvestism can be excluded. Through crossdressing we find a stage for gender performativity as to reunite with the heteronormative challenges of his debut film. This reunion progresses to a compliance with homonormativity in his final feature films.
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Den lesbiska blicken : En undersökning av blick och betraktarskap utifrån tre målningar av Romaine BrooksMohlin, Anna January 2012 (has links)
This paper aims to investigate the terms and conditions of a lesbian gaze and a lesbian spectatorship from a feminist and queer theoretical point of view. The empirical material consists of three paintings by the American artist Romaine Brooks (1874-1970). Brooks was based in Paris in the early 20th century where she was surrounded by a group of intellectual and usually cross-dressing lesbians. The women within this context are the ones depicted in Brooks’ paintings and this makes her one of the first artists in modernity to openly portray lesbian and cross-dressing women. Her paintings lead into new conditions for the traditional understanding of spectatorship as well as female positions, since there is no male involvement or presence within the interactive space surrounding these paintings. The survey tries to further investigate and break down already existing theories concerning spectatorship with the main focus on Laura Mulvey’s the male gaze, termed in the essay “Visual Pleasure and Narrative Cinema” (1975). The queer theoretical approach in this paper is based on Judith Butler’s performativity, which then is attached to gaze theories in order to investigate the active and passive positions found in Brooks’ paintings. The paper does also include an analysis of the male gaze in relation to modernism, avant-garde, canon and subsequently the reason behind Brooks’ absence in modernist canon.
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Transformationer : 1800-talets svenska translitteratur genom Lasse-Maja, C.J.L. Almqvist och Aurora LjungstedtHolmqvist, Sam January 2017 (has links)
Literary descriptions of shifting from and transgressing assigned sex were common in 19th Century Sweden. This thesis forms a contribution to the larger project of writing a history of Swedish trans literature, and develops new interpretations of certain works of fiction by applying a transgender studies perspective. Through trans readings the thesis also examines what potential and possible implications literature might have for trans people beyond the literary realm. Trans readings are able to supplement earlier research by providing a nuanced understanding of the production of trans- and cisgenders. The theoretical perspectives used in the thesis are drawn for the most part from queer and transgender studies. The thesis adopts a conceptual understanding of trans as a movement, and aims to widen the scope of what may be considered relevant to a history of trans literature. The primary objects of analysis are the 1833 autobiography of widely known thief and cross-dresser Lasse-Maja (Lars Molin), C.J.L. Almqvist’s Drottningens juvelsmycke (1834), and Aurora Ljungstedt’s Moderna typer (1874). In closing, two texts from the fin-de-siècle are also closely read; Amanda Kerfstedt’s Reflexer (1901) and Frida Stéenhoff’s “Ett sällsamt öde” (1911). A wide range of other fiction is additionally studied in order to establish a contextual pattern of trans literary traditions. The thesis demonstrates that trans permeates all kinds of fiction, and that the characters analysed construct both trans and cis gender categories. It concludes that trans is done in a variety of ways, and with a variety of meanings in 19th and early 20th century literature. Trans is often depicted as a positive, fruitful and desirable act, through trans characters who are both themselves subjects of erotic desire and who become symbols of liberty and emancipation. Other trans figures however are often counter images of what are considered to be correct sexes, and are depicted as threatening and/or ridiculous. Both these negative and positive representations of trans affirm the gender binary. At the same time, they also break and destabilize that same binary, and the trans characters in the study both can and cannot be interpreted as transgressing cis- and heteronormativity respectively.
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“She said she was called Theodore” : - A modality analysis of five transcendental saints in the 1260’s Legenda Aurea and 1430’s Gilte LegendeAtterving, Emmy January 2017 (has links)
This thesis explores modalities in two hagiographical collections from the late Middle Ages; the Legenda Aurea and the Gilte Legende by drawing inspiration from post-colonial hybridity theories.. It conducts a close textual analysis by studying the use of pronouns in five saints’ legends where female saints transcend traditional gender identities and become men, and focuses on how they transcend, live as men, and die. The study concludes that the use of pronouns is fluid in the Latin Legenda Aurea, while the Middle English Gilte Legende has more female pronouns and additions to the texts where the female identity of the saints is emphasised. This is interpreted as a sign of the feminisation of religious language in Europe during the late Middle Ages, and viewed parallel with the increase of holy women at that time. By doing this, it underlines the importance of new words and concepts when describing and understanding medieval views on gender.
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